Antarctica – a very brief history of discovery.
The idea of Terra Australis begins with the Greeks. Pythagoras in the sixth century BC and Aristotle in the fourth century BC, argue that the earth is a sphere. Greek geographers feelings for symmetry lead to the concept of a southern landmass. Flat earth orthodoxy holds forth until the voyages of discovery during the sixtheenth century.
Timeline: 1501 Florentine Seaman, Amerigo Vespucci sails the South American coastline as far as 50deg.S and may have reached South Georgia. 1519 Magellan leaves Spain with instructions to sail south and find a western sea route to the Indies. He found a narrow strait which he named the Magellan Straits, and passed through to the Pacific Ocean. To the south was Tierra del Fuego and thought to be the northern edge of the long sought after southern continent. Magellan continues westward, and is killed in the Philippines, but one of his ships completes the circumnavigation of the globe. 1578 Francis Drake in the Golden Hind sails through Magellan Strait and is blown far south and names Drakes Passage and proves there is no land to be seen south of Tierra del Fuego. 1592 English explorer John Davis discovers the Falkland Islands. 1616 Willem Schouten and Jacob le Maire discover Cape Horn and are the first sailors to round the tip Cape Horn. 1773 Captain James Cook and crews of Resolution and Adventure became the first men to cross the Antarctic Circle. Cook on his second voyage of discovery was ordered to keep as far south as possible, but he failed to find land and so dismiss the myth of a southern continent. Cook writes: ‘a strong gail attended by a thick fog, sleet and snow, which froze to the rigging as it fell and decorated the whole ship with icicles. Our ropes were like wire, our sails like plates of metal and the sheaves froze fast in the blocks……I have never seen so much ice’. Cook reached 71deg. S, travelled 18,000 miles through unknown southern seas without sighting land. Cook returned again in 1775 on his 3rd voyage covering 62,000 miles of discovery. Jan 1820 The Russian explorer, Admiral Bellingshausen, sent by the Czar on a voyage of exploration in the southern ocean, was the first person to sight land on the continent. He also circumnavigated the continent further south than Cook. Feb 1831 John Bisco a sealer sights the cliffs of Enderby Land – the first sighting of land in the Indian sector. Jan 1840 Charles Wilkes sailed through pack ice for 1250 miles along the coast now known as Wilkes Land and sighted land on several occasions and confirms that Antarctica is indeed a continent. Jan 1841 Sir James Ross with two ships Erebus and Terror became the first to penetrate the Antarctic pack ice. He enters and names the Ross Sea and discovers Ross Island and the huge cliffs of the Ross Ice Shelf. He returns to Hobart but sails south again the following summer to trace the ice shelf further east and reaching 78deg. S, a record that would stand until 1900.
1881 Sealers and whalers have been working the Antarctic and Sub Antarctic Islands for more than 100 years during this era of discovery. The first regulations were introduced by the British in 1881 to control the industry as the numbers of seal were depleting. 1895 Henryk Bull, a whaler, is credited with being the first to land on Antarctica at midnight ‘on a pebbly beach of easy access’ at Cape Adare in the Ross Sea. (Frances and I also landed on this beach on 29th January 1998 while on our previous trip to the Ross Sea). There is a colony here of over 1,000,000 Adelie Penguins. This was also the sight of the first over-wintering expedition led by Carsten Borchgrevink on the Southern Cross in 1899.
And so it all began. Discovery and exploration of the Antarctic Continent was ahead. Names like Scott, Wilson, Shackleton, Frank Wild, Douglas Mawson, Amundsen, Lars Christensen, and Sir Edmund Hillary and many others and nations have ventured south and contributed in no small way to progress and discovery on the continent. Many bases and research facilities now exist and about 1000 people overwinter in Antarctica each year.
Tourism began in the 1960’s with an annual luxury cruise out of New York. Qantas began one day excursions in 1977. An Air NZ DC10 crashed into Mt Erebus in 1979 due to an error in programming of the navigational equipment.
Frances and I will be traveling to the Antarctic Peninsula in February 2016 onboard the ‘Sea Explorer’ for a 22 day cruise to Antarctica, the South Shetland Islands, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. We leave from Ushuaia in southern Argentina and we berth in Buenos Aires.
We fly via Sydney to Santiago, Chile, and onto Buenos Aires, Argentina, where we spend two nights.
After 16 hours flying and another 4 hours waiting in airport lounges
in Sydney and Santiago, we arrive in the city of Buenos Aires (BA). BA has a population of 3 million and a climate similar to Brisbane. It is said that BA is the Paris of Argentina. The architecture does have a European influence.
Lonely Planet describes BA as, “Sexy, alive and supremely confident, this beautiful city gets under your skin. Like Europe with a melancholic twist, Buenos Aires is unforgettable.”
And the Nightlife:
“Take a cat nap, down your coffee and be prepared to stay up all night – this is a city that never sleeps! Restaurants open at 9pm, bars at midnight and clubs at 2am – at the very earliest. If you’re cool, of course, you’ll show up after 4am and dance till dawn.
International DJs are all the rage, spinning electronica to legions of hip, trendy and well-dressed crowds. But you can also enjoy live music such as rock, blues, jazz and even folk – just remember that you’ll be doing it all very late!”
Buenos Aires is a shopper’s paradise. The city is laced with shopping streets lined with heaps of clothing and shoe stores, leather shops and nearly everything else you can think of. Large shopping malls are modern and family-friendly, offering designer goods, food courts and children’s playgrounds.
We visit the Plaza de Mayo – Argentina’s Most Famous. The Plaza de Mayo is as fundamental to Argentine political history as
Argentinians and homesick immigrants are to the Tango. The square is a political hub, financial and administrative center and throughout history has been a symbol of disaster, rebellion and hope. Among the three important historic buildings on the plaza, are the Cabildo, the former seat of the Colonial government. We walk through the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral — now famous as Pope Francis’ former parish, and the government house, the Casa Rosada sitting at the edge of Plaza de Mayo.
The Casa Rosada is one of the most iconic buildings in Buenos Aires. With its pink facade and palace-like design, the governmental house has served as the backdrop to countless numbers of protests, famous speeches and significant moments in Argentina’s history.
All the above is very good and safe to navigate. However move into suburbia and its a different story with poor housing and services and a high police presence. Every one is pleasant and helpful though. We enjoyed our stay.
You can also visit-
Gaucho Day trip: Santa Susana Ranch
Take in a Tango show.
Parrillas (steak houses) are every where. Argentinians love their steak. But all the worlds foods are also available in the many restaurants.
And – Don’t Cry For Me Argentina.
Then we fly south to revisit (we were here September 2007),
Ushuaia, known to many as the world’s most southerly City (about 55deg S), Ushuaia is on the Island of Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. It has a population of 60,000 people and is one of the fastest growing cities of the world. Apart from tourism there is a naval establishment and a rapidly expanding electronics industry.
We will stay in this spectacular place
for two nights before boarding the ‘Sea Explorer’ and sailing via the Antarctic Peninsular to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and South Shetlands and sailing on to Buenos Aires for disembarkation, and back home.
Ushuaia is a resort town on Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the “End of the World.” The windswept town, perched on a steep hill, is surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It’s the gateway to Antarctic cruises and nearby winter sports.
At 54deg.48’S. Ushuaia has what is called a sub polar oceanic climate.
Temperatures at the Ushuaia – International Airport average 1.3 °C in the coolest month (July), and 9.6 °C in the warmest month (January). Ushuaia receives an average of 3.93 hours of sunshine per day. We have two days here so we rug up and explore this busy and picturesque place.
A busy port and adventure hub, Ushuaia is a sliver of steep streets and jumbled buildings below the snow capped Martial Range. Here the Andes meet the southern ocean in a sharp skid, making way for the city before reaching a sea of lapping currents.
It’s a location matched by few, and chest-beating Ushuaia takes full advantage of its end-of-the-world status as an increasing number of Antarctic-bound vessels call in to port. Its endless mercantile hustle knows no irony: the souvenir shop named for Jimmy Button (a native kidnapped for show in England), the ski center named for a destructive invasive species… You get the idea.
That said, with a pint of the world’s southernmost micro brew
in hand, you can happily plot the dazzling outdoor options: hiking, sailing, skiing, kayaking and even scuba diving are just minutes from town. Tierra del Fuego’s comparatively high wages draw Argentinians from all over to resettle here.
First evening at sea, bound for Antarctica
Its a 2 Day sail across one of the worlds roughest seas, The Drake Passage. Some call it the Drake Shake, but I called it the Drake Lake, smooth as! And so we were across in one and a half days. The adventure has begun.
Late on day 2 we make the first landing on Aicho Island in the South Shetland Archipelago. This is the first of 16 landings we will make. There is great excitement for all, specialty for the first timers in a Zodiac, let alone the first time for most to a Polar Region. All went smoothly and we are all ashore without mishap. (good safety briefing).
I am not going to rave on about every day to day activity for the next 20 days (thank goodness for that I hear you say), but I will try to cover all of pertinent and important sightings and activities with pictures.
Half Moon Island-
Whalers Bay, Deception Island.
This place must have been like an oasis in a desert. It is a large volcanic crater with a narrow opening to an open sea. An ideal place in a sheltered bay for a whaling, and later sealing operations which lasted for some 50 years. There were also research stations operated by the Spanish and Argentina.
Gonzalez Videla- Chile Base
Elephant Island- Earnest Shackleton and his men, 28 in all, landed here after sailing in two 22ft. long boats from an ice flow in the Weddell Sea, after his ship “The Endurance” was crushed by ice and sank in the Weddell Sea. It was 497 days since they had last set foot on land, and no one in the world knew of their plight.
Shackleton realised that in order to effect a rescue, he was going to have to travel to the nearest inhabited place which was the whaling station on South Georgia, some 800 miles distant and across the most stormy stretch of ocean in the world. They expected to encounter waves that were 50 feet from tip to trough “Cape Horn Rollers” in a 22 foot long boat. Their navigation was by a sextant and a chronometer of unknown accuracy, they were dependent on sightings of the sun that could sometimes not be seen for weeks in the overcast weather so characteristic of these latitudes. They landed on the uninhabited Elephant Island,
Shackleton and 5 men left from here on 24 April 1916 to make for South Georgia arriving on 10th May. All 6 were completely exhausted, 2 of them only just alive.
It was an epic journey in violent seas. If they had missed South Georgia they would have finished up lost in the Atlantic Ocean and would have perished and no rescue would have been sent to Elephant Island. The James Caird leaving Elephant Island.
Three days at sea-
Always something to see-
South Georgia Islands
South Georgia Island is a sub-Antarctic island administered by the United Kingdom as part of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. It is located 1390 km southeast of the Falkland Islands and 2150 km from South America. It is the home of vast numbers of birds and marine life, but its remote location and lack of access makes it a rare destination for tourists. We are very fortunate to be able to be here. Population 12.
This the place where Shakleton landed with five of his men and was able to cross a steep mountain range to the whaling station on the other side of the island and plan the rescue of the rest of his party that he left on Elephant Island. To read more about Shackleton go to:
South American Fur Seal
Antarctic Fur Seal
Southern Elephant Seal
Long-finned Pilot Whale
The Falklands War – 1982
An Extract from the Daily Mail – Australia
A very dirty war: British soldiers shot dead by enemy troops waving the white flag and Argentinian prisoners bayoneted in cold blood. An ex-Para tells of the horrors of the Falklands
The Falklands War was short, sharp and very nasty. The fighting I experienced as a young soldier in the Parachute Regiment was, at times like something out of World War I. We fought at close quarters, clearing trenches of Argentinian troops with bayonets and grenades. Read more:
I have a collection of letters and diaries that I have transcribed to include in this blog. I am sure you will find them interesting.
William Saunders Beveridge JP was the first of my Beveridge ancestors to arrive in Australia. He was the son of Robert EbenezerBeveridge 1800-1884and Isabella Thompson Saunders bn 1840, of Scotland. I don’t have any evidence that Robert Ebenezer Beveridge ever came to Australia.
Copied from the hand of William Saunders Beveridge JP
Notes written on board the Ship “Northumberland” on her passage to Australia departed from Plymouth August 14th 1852.
Having enjoyed ourselves for two days rambling on our native shores we entered within our wooden walls on the evening of the 13th and many a tear dropt as a goodbye was wafted to us, as the boats left on our ship’s side. On the morning of Saturday the 14th. Had the anchor weighed before many of the passengers were out of their berths, but there being no wind it was sometime e’er we got drifted out of the breakwater, when a slight breeze sprung up and pushed us into the ocean, the wind freshened towards evening when we had a heavy fall of rain, and the sea beginning to run high made us keep close to our cabins. Sunday 15th. High wind and rain all day, everybody inclined to be seasick, I for one, have been unable to lift my head all day – are said to be 100 miles from Lands End. Monday 16th. Pushing along today with a side wind, and the sea is not high our vessel is tossing up and down very much and occasionally shipping a wave to no small annoyance of those that love to be on deck. Not a speck to be seen in any direction. Tuesday 17th. Passed a rough night, but very calm today, slight wind and moving very slow, getting rid of our sickness, but obliged to hold by the ropes, as we have not used to the motion of the vessel, some passengers very sick yet. Wednesday 18th. Had a wet night but been a fine morning with a favourable wind, hoisted two flying Studsails and are cutting along about 9 knots, we see some beautiful porpoises and dolphins dashing from under our bows. Thursday 19th. A beautiful day with a light wind, we are now nearing the Bay of Biscay and the waves come now with a pretty large swell, we are keeping well out of the ocean, and steering nearly south-west. Friday 20th. Showery, not running above five knots an hour, the wind getting round astern, having hoisted another stud sail, beginning now to spend our evening, boxing, dancing, card playing etc. etc. Saturday 21st. Was early up this morning and had a good deal of reading e’er the others were out of their bunks, two us went up the mast to the cross trees, where we enjoyed our books in quietness, it is a capital place to sit and read and look down on the busy hum below, and the dark blue sea without a speck in any direction. – making eight knots. Sunday 22rd. Had an English Service performed today on the Quarterdeck at half past 10 the Captain & Doctor officiating. – Passed a vessel homeward bound but as we were going very fast had only time to exchange names, where bound for, alls well, etc. with signal flags. Monday 23rd. Running along smoothly to day, the sun now begins to feel warmer, everything has been confusion, passengers getting luggage out of the hold. What a splendid night, the moon shining full and clear through the flapping sails and breaking here and there on the deck. I gazed and lingered long on the deck tonight for my thoughts were full of home. “And while I gazed I felt a tear,” “With——-rapture start,” “But hope sweet quickener of the pulse,” Played round my beating heart.” Tuesday 24th. Pushing along to day with a fair wind, will soon be in the Latitude of Madeira. I have been cook to day, so I have been flying about and notwithstanding the pitching of the ship, can carry pots very steadily. Wednesday 25th. Fair wind, saw two fine Bottlenose whales this afternoon, can’t enjoy the moon to-night for I have promised to make one at whist. Saw Madeira with the glass this evening before we went below. Thursday 26th. Lat. 26-21 N. Long 21-53 been engrossed with a novel all day with whist at 1/- a rub in the evening, such is the way we kill the weary hours. Friday 27th. The smoke of a Steamer seen on our lee and supposed to be an American packet, we are getting splendid weather. Saturday 28th. Stout breeze and we are dashing along. Two flying fish fell on deck this morning, they are like small trout with large fins. Sunday 29th. Had a beautiful day with a good wind. Prayers read by the Captain & Doctor on the Quarter deck at half past 10am. A sail seen this afternoon, she appears to be outward bound, and we are making on her we run 211 miles the last 24 hours. Lat. 20.8 -W Long 24.50. Monday 30th. Was up at daylight this morning and had a fine douche bath under the pump on the bows of the vessel, the wind is rather getting round a head of us, but we are still running on pretty well. Tuesday 31st. N.Lat. 17-35 W.Long. 25-6. Wind pretty favourable, but very unsteady, seen a good many birds to day, very calm to night. Wednesday 1st September. We had a beautiful morning and the sun burning hot, when all at once the sky got cloudy and for two hours it rained in torrents, after which it has again got hot and calm. We are now scarcely moved and have had some ado trying to catch Shark, he was twice hooked but managed to break off, he seems to know that we had a death on board this morning, a child 3 days old. Thursday 2rd. Very calm, a sail in eight this afternoon has set everyone to letter writing, and every one is taking elbow room to send home intelligence of our hitherto prosperous voyage. Lat 13-5 Long 25-20. She turns out to be a Frenchman, from California to Bordeaux. Nearly every passenger has written so we have given them a good sized bag of letters. Friday 3rd. Very calm and hot, still baiting the shark, but cant make out to catch him, for he is too cunning for us. Saturday 4th. Still calm, not moving more than 1 knot an hour, the child that died on Wednesday was committed to the waves at an early hour this morning, the shark has left us. A meeting held to night in our cabin of the second class passengers, to lay before the Captain a complaint of his want of attention to us in regard to Stewards etc. etc. Sunday 5th. Rain, with a strong head wind. No service performed this forenoon on account of the wet, but a shame to us cabin passengers, for the steerage passengers met in the evening and read Prayers among themselves, I was the only one of our class who joined them and was pleased with the manner in which they were conducted. Monday 6th. N.Lat 8-45. W Long 23-18. Distance 128 miles. Course wet day and the wind still unfavourable, which makes the vessel roll about a good deal. Tuesday 7th. N.Lat. 6-43. W.Long. 21-47. Strong head wind. Passed a large vessel this forenoon, which we lost sight of during a heavy fall of rain, which continued till night, we enjoy fresh water, so we all caught as much as we could. Wednesday 8th. N.Lat. 5-47 W.long 18-48 Distance 82 miles nothing worthy of note. Thursday 9th. Very calm N. Lat. 5 W.Long 18- 28 Distance 84 miles. We were obliged for the first time to make a tack from the S.East to S.West on account of the head wind. Four vessels seen to day, we have left three of them behind. Friday 10th. N.Lat 4-31 W.Long 18-31. Still calm and distance only 31 miles, saw some large black fish while getting a shower bath this morning. A heavy fall of rain this afternoon without wind, the four vessels still in sight. Saturday 11th. N.Lat. 3-57 W.Long 17-38 dist. 63 miles. A beautiful day with plenty of wind, passed a vessel that left London 14 days before us which makes us think more of our old tub of a ship. Sunday 12th. A very pleasant mild day Prayers on the Quarterdeck at half past 10am and the steerage in the evening at 7 o’clock pm. Had reading during the day with Wilson & Smith through Proverbs, Roman, Ephesians & Galatians, and I think we all derived benefit by it. Monday 13th. Running along with a fair wind and expect to cross the line to night, N.Lat. 0-49 W.Long 20-57, we are just 49 miles from it at 12 o’clock noon. Immediately as it got dark in the evening, Neptune’s Secretary came on board. He was one of the sailors dressed up and hid among the ropes outside, when all was ready the watch at the bows shouted out “Ship Ahoy”. Which was answered in a hoarse voice as if it came a short way off in the water, with “What ship is that, where from and where to”. Our mate answering as if it was in reality a vessel bearing down on us, of course everyone came rushing up on deck, some thinking we had been run foul by another vessel, than a barrel of tar and straw set fire to was dropt from a window in the fore castle. Same time two rocket lights were stuck in the rigging one fore and one aft so the ship was all in a glare, then the Secretary of Neptune leapt on board, and bauld out for the Captain. And after some sort of speech about lighting our ship across his territory, and that his master would be on board tomorrow he left letters and disappeared. Tuesday 14th. This much dreaded day has at last arrived, the sailors have got a holiday and they have been busy all morning preparing for the feat, a large sail has been hung amidships by the corners is filled with water, we all put on old clothes and waited the commencement of the ceremony, and getting our fines 2/6 each paid as Neptune demanded in his last nights letters. Altogether we have collected 10 Pounds 6/-, which the sailors will just drink when they get to Port Phillip. Now comes Neptune and his wife drawn in a fine carriage and escorted by a band of darkies as black as soot can make them with two violins a banjo, an accordion a drum, a tambourine and a triangle followed by two barbers, one with large wooden scissors and a comb, the other with two hoop iron razors and a lather pitcher, next a white bear and keeper Apothecary, constables etc. etc. in attendance. The carriage stopt at the foot of the Poop stairs which Neptune ascended and after delivering a lengthened speech, about being on the sea for about 2000 years but owing to the immense number of ships now crossing (his territory) the Line it would be out of his power to shave or curl the hair of every one on board, but still those recruits to a sea faring life must undergo the operation which they would now proceed to do. So he drove again up to the sail, and took a seat on the edge of it telling his barbers to do their duty, bear first plunged into the water and seemed to enjoy himself swimming about; when a culprit was walked up and made to sit with his back to sail, when his face was soaped in style, with a horrid paste made of flour and grease and tar, which after being scraped with the hoop razor, he was caught by the heels and plunged head foremost into the water where he was seized by the bear and put over head again and again till he was out of breath and nearly drowned for there would be eight feet of water in the sail. After six or eight were done in like manner, there began a general throwing about of water, passengers as well as sailors, and throwing each other into the sail, and after being in it was no easy matter getting out again. So after all the unlucky weights had got half a drowning, Neptune called to order, said he would hold a Serenade Concert in the afternoon, entered his carriage and drove off to dinner; and really we had a capital afternoon of music, singing and dancing, which was kept up till dark. After which a donkey was made up with a man inside with creels on his back, with apples and potatoes in them a few of which were sold at an exorbitant price, by the ragged donkey driver, then there was a row and donkey and creel rolled in the mud, sometime Neptune bade us good bye, and thus ended the days sport, which passed off better than any one expected, every one being highly delighted, and day was very favourable. S.Lat 1-6 W.Long 22-16. Dist. Run 139 miles. Wednesday 15th. Getting along rather faster today, but we were passed by a fine French vessel the “Comet” From Bordeaux bound for Calcutta. She came pretty close so we exchanged signals, she is a new vessel and really she gave us the go-bye in fine style, she is now two or three miles ahead which makes us rather downcast tho, she is the first that has done so. S.Lat. 3-21. W.Long. 23-40. Distance 158 miles. Thursday 16th. The Frenchman is out of sight this morning, the sea is running pretty high, and we are dashing along about 8 knots an hour. S.Lat. 6-5 W.Long 25-13. Dist. 172 miles. Steering a southwest direction. Friday 17th. S.Lat. 8-5. W.Long 27-1 Dist. 177 miles, Fresh breeze and with every sail full, “Fierce bounding forward, springs the ship,” “Like greyhound starting from the slip.” W S Beveridge
Margaret Rowe in Hamilton holds a copy of the original hand written document. She has kindly given me a copy. Unfortunately we only have the first month of the diary, but this gives us an idea of life on board a sailing ship in the 1850’s. Neale
The Descendants of William Saunders BeveridgeJP
Letter written by W S Beveridge JP Little River, Victoria. 5th October, 1858. Eight years after he arrived in Australia.
My dear Father, I have now returned from my up country trip, having concluded the sale of the sheep entirely to Messrs. Kaye & Butchards satisfaction. I have been away ten weeks and of course on my return here, I expected to have found a number of home letters awaiting one (two mails having arrived during my absence) and you may guess my wonder and mortification when I found there were none. I was wanted to go back to purchase more stock but as there is a mail daily expected I thought I would just come home and take a fortnights rest, and get the latest home news.
Mr Prentice having also returned to this country, we expect a visit from him in a few days, and Mr McManus tells me he was at Urquhart, where he was highly delighted, and had lots of news to give me. I have also now made up my mind that instead of roving so much about the country, to get a place of my own take up a wife, and settle down, off course I must consult you on that most important subject and now ask your consent without which I could not enjoy the same happiness, and I therefore introduce to you my Jessie McLean a farmers daughter near Geelong who has been like a sister to me ever since I came to live at the Little River and I believe we both unintentionally formed an attachment for each other, and I may say that we have been so much together that I have had a long trail of her qualities, perhaps you will say love is blind, but neither of us have been so much drawn together by levity or childishness, as by quiet and rational conversation, and in fact, Jessie McLean is looked up to as the most active and amicable girl in the district. On return from my long trip she was again paying a visit to Mrs McManus here and was ready to sooth me for want of home letters and had been taking a sisterly care of my things in my absence. Of course my affection was nothing blighted and I asked her to share my poverty, which she at last promised to do, provided I have your consent, which I trust you will give and with the blessing of God I hope that it will prove to be my ultimate prosperity. I fancy if I had married two or three years ago I might have been a more independent man now. October 12th. The mail has arrived and I am in receipt of your letter of the 28th July. I am extremely sorry to here from James’ letter of 10th July that came by the same mail, that you had been so unwell, but I hope by this time you are again feel yourself quite strong and that you wont want my assistance for a few more years for you know I could not bear the idea of returning home without a shilling in my pocket, or do anything but what is honorable to the young lady I have mentioned above. Still I would do a great deal, in fact everything in my power to please or serve you and I hope when I get a happy thrifty wife I will be able to lay past some money. You say that I write with too much reserve, surely some of my letters did not reach home. I thought you all knew that I left Ballarat in debt but of course I was nothing downhearted though some of my most intimate friends turned their backs, Sandy Wilson among them rest whom I always looked upon as a brother and would have divided my last shilling with, such is human nature, but I got a good lesson and I will profit by it through life.
Mr McManus was the only man who received me with open arms and seemed to know that I was honest tho unfortunate. I set to work and am again getting my head above board. Of course Wilson and the others wish to cringe towards me again, but I treat them all with indifference. Mr McManus wishes me to join him in the purchase of a Station on the Avoca. Kaye & Butchard I daresay would advance me a few hundred pounds, they are very wealthy men and I know that I am to be trusted. If I had a lend from you I think I could return it with interest in two years. I see by to-days papers that the Mail Ship goes off again tomorrow, so I have hardly time to aswer my sisters letters but will do so in course of next week, for I see that the ‘Blackwall’ sails on the 20th and ‘Donald McKay’ on the 30th of this month and letters by them are perhaps as safe as on the lazy ship ‘Victoria’ which sails tomorrow. Mr Prentice was here yesterday he says Urquhart is the finest farm he ever saw, and he is highly delighted with the reception and kindness he received.
Wishing you a renewal of health and that you may be able to continue to govern for number of years yet to come is the prayer of Your Affectionate Son, Wm Beveridge.
Letter from W.S.Beveridge JP to his sister: Moyong 10th. Dec. 1858
My dear Jeanie, I received yours, Isabellas and Janet’s letters of the 7th. Sept. last week. I suppose by the time this reaches you Janet will have walked off to her own house, she kept me long in the dark, and of course I am too late with my compliments and well wishes, but I have no doubt she had enough of them, and I forget where I have read that too much wishing the fair bride happiness and joy only added fuel to her tears, for on that day she was to leave forever her loved home and her fathers doting care and to trust as it were her frail bark on the ocean of the world and should the pilot prove faithless to his trust and wreck the frail back her once buoyant and cheerful heart would be broken and irrecoverably lost. I think highly of John Blackadder and I would only be rejoiced to see Isabella and you as happily settled. You will receive a package by the same mail as this letter the original of which if you promise to love her, I hope will compensate you for the want of Janet. We mean to make it up sometime about next May, but I can assure you Jeanie that her (Jessie) qualities surpass her charm and she is the only person that ever I liked as well as my sisters. Mr Nimmo a stirling man is also talking about going home this Mail, he was a beau of Jessie’s and will tell you something of her. I at one time thought he was before me but I beat them all off.
Mr Nimmo has a fine property here worth 20,000 pounds. He has promised to call at Urquhart and I hope you make him welcome. When I shall be able to come home on a visit on strength of that. What do you think of coming out to see me .I don’t think you would fancy me bringing a wife home but married I mean to be e’er many months are gone come what likes. You ask me to give you a particular account of what I am about but that is no easy matter as I fly about so much, I fancy you received all my letters about my last tour up the country, and I am just waiting on here a few days thinking whether or not I should take a run up to Sydney for Kay & Butchart to purchase sheep for them. I guess you would travel too, if you received a pound a day and all your expenses.
With love to all I am Willie
Letter from W S Beveridge JP to his sister Janet: Benalla 22nd. April 1864
My dear Janet, Isabella’s letter to Jessie was all we received last mail and as she seems to answer that herself I think it must be my turn to write to you. I had intended starting this morning for the Jamieson & Woods Point and meant to have written you from there tomorrow, but this has turned out sushi a wet day that Jessie has prevailed on me to stay at fire side and spend another day with her and the boys, and having been so much away lately it does not take much persuasion to keep me another day at my happy home here. The time is 11.30 am. Maggie is at her crochet and singing the ‘Bonnie Hills O’Scotland’ with the children playing horses on the Verandah, Jessie is by my side talking of our plans for the future. A party of us are riding to the diggings together I intend staying a night at Barjarg on my way up, give in my registration there, and e’er I return from the Quartz Reefing district will either make up my mind to go up there to stay altogether, or take a place here in Benalla in conjunction with a house I am already connected with up there. I have also an interest in a reef which is said to be rich and I want see it and judge for myself wither it is worth keeping on or not.
I was at Woods Point a month ago with a lot of sheep from Barjarg (and therefore I missed writing last mail). What a rough country it is to take stock through, with rocks and scrub and precipitous banks, the tracts along some of the sidlings of the mountains are so narrow at places that one horseman can’t pass another, and when you here the bells of a team of packhorses coming you must look out for a wide place to stand till they file past. There are something like 600 horses employed in that trade packing from Jamieson into the diggings a distance of 40 miles, the road in from the Melbourne side has also to be packed over for about the same distance, but I daresay e’er long roads will be surveyed and hills cut down. 23rd. Maggie speaks of paying a visit to Geelong taking Robert with her, he is growing a big fellow quite inseparable from his Aunt, Willie is more like boy and a will little racket caring for nobody. I should like to send you ‘Cartes de Visite’ but there is no artist in Benalla and no travelling one has called lately. We were quite delighted with papers received mail before last. Our papers are very little worth here otherwise I might send them oftener. Give my kind regards to John I must endeavour to send him a long letter next mail. I was called away yesterday in the middle of this letter and have been obliged to finish it up hurriedly this morning. Jessie or Maggie may add something before the mail closes and
I am Yours Affectionately, W S Beveridge
Tottington 21st. August 1867.
My Dear Father, I received no letters this mail, but previous one I think I got one from Jeanie and Isabella, and papers from John Blackadder. I intended writing you a long letter this mail but really I am so much taken up with one thing and another that I sometimes forget till the last few days. This season as I anticipated I have had a splendid lambing and last week just finished earmarking the increase amounting to 11,500. I think I told you I put 12,000 ewes to the ram and expected 10,000 lambs so you see I have exceeded that by 1500, I therefore expect this year to shear about 50,000 sheep. We begin in about a month and I am at present busy getting the shed and sheepwash put on right having a number of men employed at both, and like to be at every place myself and have everything done as I want by the way of improvements, and according to my own plans, so my hands are, or I should rather say my head is at present pretty full, this is also my yearly balance month. Making up the profit and loss of the year, to show where the expenditure has gone to, Wither Wages, Improvements, Stores, Rates or other expenses. Of course I keep a regular set of books by double entry which makes a good deal of writing, every sum I receive or pay away either by cheque or otherwise, I have therefore to enter at least four times, to Dr & Cr of Journal, and from thence to ledger and Cash Book. I also send a copy of my Journal to town every month, as a check upon the cheques I draw. I have a great deal to thank you for being so quick and correct at accounts and books. The Messers Rostrouse never kept any books and they never knew how they stood, therefore the Station dwindled into the hands of Agents, Grice Sumner & CO. I don’t know when Mr Benn of their firm will be able to call upon you. I should have written him this mail but I have not time to do him justice as I must give him a long business letter and as he told me would be very busy the first months after he landed he will have other things to think about.
I was thinking about sending you home a large specimen or Nugget, vis. a lump of quartz about a cwt. stuck full of particles of gold, calculated at 30 pounds worth. It is found near the surface at St Arnaud Reefs, on the northern boundary of the run. I will send it to town with the wool drays, and G.S.&Co. can forward it to their London Firm but that will be two months yet.
Jessie and the boys are as usual in excellent health and happiness, she talks of paying a visit to the old folks this summer, I want them all to clear out of my way for two months during the bustle of shearing.
William Lewis passed this way last week on his way up to Aitkin, he left word that he would like to meet me at Navarre next Thursday on his way down. I have not met Wilson for the past six months, he has less to do than I have therefore looked for a visit from him for some time. David Kirk is doing well in Smythesdale near Ballarat, manager of a Mining Co.
W S Beveridge
An account of the death of Andrew Beveridge. (no relation) Twenty-two years after Hume and Hovell had found the Murray River, Andrew Beveridge and his three brothers pushed their way with a mob of cattle through the no-man’s country that stretched beyond the first settlement of Swan Hill. Here there were nomad bands of war-like and treacherous aborigines, who harassed their herds. Their trail was marked by an unending line of beasts killed by native spears. The white men’s days were filled with the terrific labour of overlanding through virgin country, their nights long-drawn agonies of suspense. Yet they pushed on, eventually to build their huts at a place they named ‘Tyntynder’. For months the natives carried on their war of attrition against the intruders herds. Their taboos, however, held them back from forthright attack upon the white men. Soon the losses of cattle, by theft and spear, menaced the success of the Beveridges’ enterprise, but they fought on.
There came an end to these tensions, however, but peace had its blood price. Andrew Beveridge, while on the trail of straying stock, was attacked, and murdered brutally. There were punitive expeditions sent against the natives, and two were identified as the murderers and captured. They were hanged in a Melbourne gaol.
This was no isolated adventure. The same story was being written with even deeper and darker variations wherever men pushed out into the wastes of the new land. It was the price of conquest.
Today ‘Tyntynder’ is but a shadow of its former greatness. Once a run of 300,000 acres, it has been whittled down by the demands of settlements to little more than a homestead holding. The Murray pine home of the Beveridges still stands, and near by is a grave, whose tombstone bears a description, which reads in part . . .
“Andrew Beveridge, MA, from Woodburn, Kilmore . . . possessing mind enlightened and judgement mature beyond most of his years, and a heart softened and sanctified by a mellowing and gladdening influence of grace divine. Aged 24 years.”
Both tombstone and homestead tell something of the Murray River’s history. ”Tyntynder itself reduced from its lordly estate seems to foreshadow the fate of many of the large station holdings along the Murray. As the tide of settlement grew, as the Murray became more and more harnessed to men’s needs, as intense production by irrigation took the place of less economic grazing, great stretches of country were converted from pastures to cultivation.
My Grandfather- William Saunders Beveridge 1870-1926 (sonof William Saunders Beveridge JP bn. 1830. and Jessie McLean bn.1837) , had two sons, my Father Athol, 1907- 1985 and his elder brother Roy. 1905- 1938. They had property in the western district of Victoria at Dunkeld, along with other Beveridge families who had, and still have holdings in the area. They sold up and bought a sheep station just out of Echuca on the banks of the Campaspe River around 1924.
The property was called ‘Cromdale’ and had a large shearing shed, which was used shearing sheep for several of the neighboring properties. My father was the wool classer. ‘Cromdale’ was also grew wheat.
The stock from the Dunkeld property were walked to ‘Cromdale’, Roy and Athol being among the drovers . A day or so after they arrived with the sheep, the gate to the horse paddock was left open, the horses escaped, and Athol being the youngest, about 17 was sent off to find the them. He followed the stock route back towards Dunkeld travelling the best way he could and asking as he went, if any one had seen the horses. He was able to track them down after several days and bring back home back to ‘Cromdale’. The Beveridge boys were well known in Echuca. They were one of a small group of young men who owned a motor vehicle and were popular picking up their girl friends, and taking them to the local dances in the well loaded car.
I have a bundle of 18 letters written by Athol to Bonnie Burgess, who he married in 1939. The first few letters Bonnie is living in her family home in Francis Street, Echuca. I will transcribe a few of them. Some are very personal. I have selected letters which has some family history and of the activities on ‘Cromdale’, and ‘Sierra Park’ where my father classed the wool clip.
Hotel Federal, Collins St. Melbourne. 8th Oct.1934 12 o’clock. Bonnie Darling, This seems to be the first chance I have had of writing to you at this hour and in bed as I am. Roy and I have been out seeing friends and relations to-day and haven’t been back very long. We had a good trip down (from Cromdale) on Friday arrived here about 4 o’clock. We went to a show at the Plaza that night “Bottoms Up”, It wasn’t bad, what I saw of it, as I felt tired and sleepy. On Saturday morning we went out to the woolstores and had a look through our wool clip etc. One of the heads there, congratulated me on my classing and gave me a great rap – they say he never sings any ones praises; but this will not interest you very much. On Saturday afternoon we went out to a football match, South Melbourne vs Geelong final. Now darling I have more or less a confession to make – On Saturday night I intended to go and see a cobber of mine but at the last minute Norman and Roy informed me that had arranged a picture party so I had to go, now don’t think I have had a night out with a girl, because I haven’t. We just went along to the pictures, and some supper and came home – I am not taking the liberty of saying you care Bonnie darling, but at the same time I must confess I feel terribly jealous if you had to tell me the same thing. Norm is behaving very well so far, we haven’t had too many pots yet. I will probably go to Dunkeld on Wednesday, perhaps Tuesday for a few days with my Aunty. The address c/- Miss M Spears, Dunkeld. I am very disappointed you could not get down on this trip but better luck next time. I would give anything to have you here. Well I think I will have to turn this light off and try to sleep. Goodnight sweetheart, Athol, xxxxxx
Dunkeld 12 Oct, 1934. My Dearest Bonnie, I was thrilled to get your letter yesterday, it was wonderful to hear something of you once more after all these days. You may be surprised to hear I did not arrive until yesterday. I was already to go on Wednesday and when I went up to see about my seat in the service car I found it was not going to be very comfortable so I decided to leave it until the early car next morning, as it is, I am very tired today, but feeling quite well. We rang ‘Cromdale’ last night. I am going to settle down to a nice quiet time for the next day or two and settle down to work on Monday. Mr Crawford called to see me yesterday and is going to pick me up on Sunday afternoon, by the way my address is c/- “Sierra Park” Victoria Park PO. I believe Roy didn’t get to the party on Wednesday. It would have been quite nice. Bonnie darling I read your letter over and over again – I could find lots of answers for the nice things – but there was one little paragraph which knocked me in a heap, of course I have been more or less been expecting this for some time, but I seemed to think it wasn’t going to come now my dear little sweetheart. I would not like your Father to think I was influencing you too much as to what you should do. But you know how I feel and how I will miss you. Things always come out at the wrong time to make things harder, but I suppose we have a bit of time yet, however let me know how things are going and Bonnie dearest I will be just living for every letter you can spare me. Well I will have to write a few lines home and haven’t much time so will have to get a move on. With every bit of my best love, Athol xxxxx
Dunkeld, 18th Oct. 1934 My Dear Bonnie, You don’t know how pleased I was to get your letters tonight, strange to say the last two of them came together. Darling I was beginning to think the game was up but I am too happy now to say anything. I just had a ring from ‘Sierra Park’ they are calling for me in a few minutes so I am all in a flurry at the moment, as a matter of fact the car is here now, so I will write you a long letter during the week end. It is almost certain that I will not be back for the show. I got you a little present in Melb. and told them to send it to you. Hope you received it in good time. Well my precious darling I really have to go. With best wishes and Congratulations on your big Birthday, and only wish I could be with you. All my love and kisses, your loving sweetheart, Athol xxxxxxx (Thiswould have mothers 21st birthday)
‘Sierra Park’ 27th Oct,34 My dear Bonnie I have just received another of your marvelous letters. You are a perfect darling staying in so much. Although I did feel jealous when I heard someone else had walked home with you, but darling I would trust you more than anybody else I know. What a loverly lot of presents you have got. I must see them all one day. I was tickled about the pyjamas. It reminded me about a little joke you once told concerning such garments. Tell me darling, what do call special occasions? This will be last letter before you go to Melbourne, so I hope you will tell me your new address there. Well dearest it is time for me to go so I will have to stop. With all my love and kisses, Yours for ever Athol xxxxxx
The next mail was addressed to, Women’s Hospital, Grattan Street Carlton, Melbourne.
‘Cromdale’ Echuca, 5th Dec 1934 My Darling Bonnie, Well Darling I was very glad to hear you are still keeping up or perhaps I should say were, but I guess the worst is over by this time, darling I have been thinking more of you the last two days than you could imagine – thinking and wondering how you are getting along at the hospital, so I am more than anxious for your next letter to arrive. But I suppose I cannot expect you to tell me much in a few days.
Well ‘Cromdale’ is a very busy place at the moment. We have quite a few men on and there seems to be every thing to do at the one time. The harvest is also about to commence. The grasshoppers are here in earnest now, at times they just look like a dust storm or smoke from a bushfire, so that amongst other things does not help to keep one cheerful. Ted came out on Sunday and stayed for tea. So we had a great old chat about the mad things we used to do years ago. He and his two brothers went down to Melbourne and back on Monday. We are talking about getting a Glider between us, they have to be flown solo, so I am wondering what I would be like in the air on my own. What do you think honey? I took Mother and Aunt into Echuca yesterday to go visiting and needless to say it was a slow afternoon for me. I suppose you feel very tired at night after all day on your feet.
Well love I must go now, hope you are quite well. All my love and kisses, Athol xxxxx
‘Cromdale,’ Echuca, Sunday ?? Jan. 1938 My darling Bon, Was very glad to get your letters on Friday and Saturday. Dear I’m afraid I was a bit mean with one letter last week, but I am back in my stride again now. Well darling I am so sorry that that place has turned out so rotten for you – darling when you hate it so much why go there. Couldn’t you do something else ? What about Echuca? Or how would it compare with the Women’s. It would be lovely to have you up here, however dear you say you are going do your best to stick it out so I hope it will improve. I will be looking forward to every letter to see how you are going. I have not been out fencing since I returned home. I have quite a few gates to make so I will be on that job for a while. Mother is still in Portland, She says I will probably have to go for her about the end of February or sooner. Was in Echuca for a little while on friday morning and saw Jack Lee in Burgess Bros., just returned from Methoura. I know you get a bit anxious and do a lot of thinking of it all, but darling we are not so very far away from that perfect happiness which we are living for, Well sweet dreams and good luck. I am yours only and always, Athol xxxx
‘Cromdale’ Echuca 5th Feb 1938 Darling, Well sweetheart I suppose you are feeling just as lonely as I am tonight. It is about 9:15pm now and I have just come in from having a yarn with Wally in the kitchen, of course all the other folk of the house have gone out for their Saturday night pleasure. Darling I am terribly lonely these days and am certainly worse since your trip home this time, more than I have ever been before. I don’t know what we’ll do if we ever have to part again after your six months is up.
Well dear there is nothing fresh in the last few days, only a cool change after a couple of hot days, one being 104deg F. We had 60 pts. of rain yesterday – will keep up the water supply and make a green shoot for a while.
Darling if I thought I was doing the right thing I would get out of this place tomorrow but I have thought about the question enough to know that we would be worse of to do it just now – of course we’ve had the usual luck to strike it tough this year – what a different outlook it would have been
now, if things had been anyway decent ( I could have even paid some income tax) Or at least I could have had an income.
This week we going to try and put up a time record with the tractor. A paddock of 100 acres has to be scarified, rolled and harrowed and we are having a shot at doing it in week. Roy, Wally and myself will work three eight hour shifts a day, so you see dear it will be a nonstop run until the job is finished. My part of the shift will probably be the first part of the night.
We are progressing slowly with the fencing, but of course all these thing cannot be done at once, there is no doubt about this place for work if you life to do it.
Was sorry to hear of Margaret Lee being so sick and hope she is on the improve.
Well this has been a slow old letter but I am sure you never expect much news from me. I love you my future darling wife.
I am yours only and always, Athol, xxxx
‘Cromdale’ Echuca 23 Feb 1938 My darling Bonnie, It has been a little cooler the last couple of days, which has freshened us up a little, it is even trying to rain tonight but I don’t fancy then prospects much and its a bit early yet, although it would be marvellous to get 2ins. now and some more later. Wouldn’t I smile if the season started off like that. Well darling how are you getting along this week? – feeling better than last I hope. Mother was still in Portland the last we heard but I think she will be going to Dunkeld very shortly. Don’t forget to let me know if there are any changes to your day off, because I may have to go to Dunkeld first, but not if I can manage the other way. Had a ring from Jack Downing last night, he is up on holidays until the weekend after next. He asked me to go in last night, which I did. We had a couple of pots and listened to the big fight – Leto and Carrol, it was quite good to listen to and was witnessed by 16,000 people at the Exhibition. (Perhaps you were there dear – Ha Ha). Mr Dowling then opened a bottle of beer and after a talk I went home about 12, We have a very big job on at present and most unexpected – we have suspicions of Black disease in our sheep, there is quite a lot about and we have had a few losses. Every sheep has to have an injection of a specially prepared vaccine and we still have about 2000 to do and you can imagine what a contract that is. I am very tired now so will finish this tomorrow, Goodnight sweetheart xxxx Thursday evening. Roy is going in tonight so I must hurry. Gladys drove into town this afternoon so this evening I was greeted with your sweet letter. Would have got it on Wednesday but no one was in town. We have been going flat out on the sheep job again and only have 200 left to do, so you can see we have been moving some. Will have to finish now darling – will answer all your questions in my next letter. Sorry I caused you that little worry but you are my future wife you know. With all my love and kisses darling, I am yours only and forever, Athol xxxxx
‘Cromdale’, Echuca 26 Feb 1938 My darling Bonnie, Well dear you know exactly what I am doing tonight because I am here writing to you and it Saturday night and a very quiet on too all the others being out – darling its terrible to be almost alone in the world. Here is some news. Gladys (the cook/house keeper) saw a snake in the kitchen the other day, she went out for a couple of minutes and when she came in again it was lying on the hearth near the stove – she watched it for a few seconds and went out to call Wally who happened to be down here from the wool shed but when they came in again it had disappeared – it probably came up between the boards and the hearth and went back down the same way. We have finished our Job of vaccinating the sheep and I have become quite expert with the needle. Also had a few postmortems which will proved very valuable for the future.
Gladys is staying in town tonight so I will probably be first up to light the fire , that’s the worst of an early night on Saturdays.
Sunday afternoon – Received your little letter this morning. Thank you dear. Today’s joke is that Roy and Wally were caught at the Commercial Hotel at about 9 o,clock – they were in the bar parlour when the Police knocked the door, they made a dive through the office to get out the backway only to be met by another Policeman who politely told them to walk back in again and took their names etc. so I suppose they are well gone. I think I am lucky not being there with them especially after last Saturday night being there for two hours. However its a lesson. We have been lucky for a long time, although I think our little corner in the dining room is pretty safe place,
Loving you more than ever, Athol xxxxx
‘Cromdale’, Echuca Thurs ??? My Darling Bonnie, Received your sweet letter this morning dear. I really should have had it last night I was ‘out’ till 2am this morning. Naughty boy aren’t I for keeping such late hour’s but its this way dear – I took over the tractor at 6pm an drove solidly until 2am this morning. Wally was to relieve me at 12 but over slept. The night work is pleasant enough, but I can think of better ways of spending the first five hours of the night. I will have a slow day today in preparation for another night shift…… ‘Cromdale’ 16th Feb ’38 Dear Bon, I am not feeling particularly bright tonight, I have an abscess or a gumboil or something on my upper gums, its not sore but at the same time not very comfortable. It has been fairly warm today and we finished another 30 chains of new fencing; half a mile in the next issue. Haven’t heard much of Roy’s party, only that it was given by Mrs Morrison………… Mother is still laid up but is improving slowly I think………….
Went to MacFarlane’s on Sunday Night and finally closed for 1600 of the sheep I looked at last Saturday. Hope they turn out alright as I am responsible.
When their father died in 1926 Roy and Athol were young men aged 21 and 19 years old. They carried on and managed the property until, Roy aged 33 died, in 1938. With droughts, the great depression and debt and loss of his brother Roy, “Cromdale” was sold, but my father continued wool classing in N S W and Victoria until he took up a position in Tasmania managing the property “Armitstead”. Athol married Lottie Eileen (Bonnie) Burgess 1913-2003. There are 39 descendants from this issue, living between north Queensland and Tasmania.
Shearing at ‘Cromdale’ Being more or less a stranger
Walking up and down the street
I received an inspiration,
While being on the beat; So I’d better tell the story, How I rambled to and fro, And how I met those shearers All shearing in a row. Now two gentlemen were talking, On a corner in the town And I heard their conversation, As I wandered up and down. So at last I got ‘darn’d’ cheeky, And butted in the frame, To hear the latest highlights, In the good old shearing game, Seems they got me—and inspired me ‘Til at last I had to go, To see those ‘Cromdale’ shearers, All shearing in a row. There were Eveston and Halligan, Both racing for the lead, While Knight and old Jack Hutchins, Were clapping on the speed; And another ‘gun’, named Boucher, Was fighting hard to win, And take the cherished title Back far Deniliquin: Seems they’re shearing for the honor, Being set in earnest race To be the ‘Cromdale’ ringer, And hold the pride of place While wishing them good fortune, A tribute I must pay, To those sterling Beveridge brothers, Should I ever go their way. And while there’s crayfish in the Murray, And there’s nice girls in the town, I’d always be contented To be wandering up and down.
More about William Saunders Beveridge 1830 – 1921
William S Beveridge arrived in Australia in 1852 on the “Northumberland”. After being a property manager and mine manager he went to Victoria Valley to manage a property, and in 1877 he selected land and set a farm at “Beverley” , Mirranatwa.
His wife had died a young women at 37 years, after 13 years of marriage, leaving a family of five boys and one daughter (Effie McArthur’s mother). Some of the family were brought up by relatives. While in the district , W S Beveridge JP was postmaster. He conducted petty sessions at Dunkeld and it said that after fining disorderly young men, and paying the fine himself, he would admonish them for being foolish enough to be caught. He was in demand locally to treat people for minor complaints being a medical student, in Scotland.
He died in 1921 aged 92 and is buried at Dunkeld. He was my Great Grandfather. His second son also named William Saunders Beveridge and was my Grandfather. He died in 1926. aged 64. And Isabella (Ella) Spears Beveridge was my Grandmother. She died in 1946
OBITUARY MRS ISABELLA BEVERIDGE
The many friends of Mrs Isabella Beveridge, late of “Cromdale” Echuca will regret to learn of her death at the Private Hospital, Hamilton, on 14th March 1946 After a long illness.
The late Mrs Beveridge endeared herself to all, by her kindly nature, and was ever ready to assist charitable appeals throughout the district. Mrs Beveridge’s husband predeceased her some years ago, and also her son, Roy. Another son Athol resides in Tasmania.
Mrs Beveridge left Echuca about two years ago.
Alfred Allen Beveridge 1868-1950, youngest of five sons of W S Beveridge JP was brought up by an Aunt and later the went to live at ‘Beverlea’ and worked with his brothers running sheep in the Moora Moora forest in the Grampians.
He had a wide knowledge of the Grampians and secured a position as officer-in-charge of most of the Grampians. He would collect royalties for wattlebark, fence posts, and output from several saw mills. Royalty was 4 pence per 100 super feet. Most of his work was done on horseback, camping in bush huts. His pay in 1906 was 7/-per day.
A. A. Beveridge was also an amateur jockey.
After his forest job he returned to farming at ‘Bona Vista’. He died aged 82 in 1950. he is also buried at Dunkeld. He had three sons and a daughter.
The Burgess Family in Australia. My Mothers Family.
The Burgess Saga, as we know it in Australia, really begins with Joseph Bird Burgess, born 19th June 1830, and his wife Margaret, born 23rd March 1833, who were married on the 1st August 1852 in England and within weeks were on their way to Melbourne on the Sailing Ship “Wandsworth”.
They arrived at Port Phillip Bay on 1st January 1853 and spent about two years in Melbourne where Joseph, in company with Herr Plock, became involved in the musical circles of the young Colony. This was not surprising, for as well as being a Pianoforte Tuner, he was a Professor of Music and apparently had a fine singing voice.
Later in 1854 they moved to Bendigo where Joseph joined Winterbotham Band, which catered so successfully for the Old Bendigons. It was here in 1865 that our Grandfather, John James Burgess, was born. As far as it can be ascertained he was the second child in the family, which means that Joseph Bird Burgess (jnr) must have been born in Melbourne.
Ten years later they moved to Moana and from there he tuned pianos over a wide area on the Victorian side and travelled to places on the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan such as Hay, Moulamein and Narrandera, going over 200 miles north of Moama. This was done in a buggy and pair. Some of these trips into N.S.W. took him as long as four months to complete, which meant that Margaret, whom he never failed to refer to as Dear Dear Margaret, was left to bring up an ever-increasing family on her own. Joseph Bird Burgess doesn’t seem to have been a man of great stamina for he continually complained of the heat and was ever thankful that God in his countless mercies had given him the strength to complete his work. He was a man of great faith and deep conviction.
There is evidence of a lifetime of financial problems and his need to borrow from his friends. Whether this was due to poor business ability, or whether his continual separation from his family when travelling to far-off places to tune pianos presented a more expensive way of living is hard to say, but from diaries he kept we learn of continual money worries, yet in 1871 his income was nearly 400 pounds or 8 per week. A generation later 3 pounds per week was regarded a good wage for a clerk. Although accommodation and food was provided free at most of the Homesteads, many of the landowners were inclined to keep him waiting for his pay – sometimes weeks or even months. During 1872 he was endeavouring to get some financial assistance from friends to enable him to have his Album of Sacred Music published, as he was sure the Royalties from it would solve all his financial worries.
From records available, by 1872 there were nine children born to them. Joseph, Jack, Willie, Ernest, Arthur, Nellie who died young – five years, Emilie, Ebeneza and Clarkson who died also aged five years. Joseph Bird used to take Jack with him when travelling far from home. It is evident from his diaries that Jack was a very kind, co-operative son who was good with horses and often rode long distances to post letters to Dear Dear Margaret or collect letters from her. They wrote to each other daily and thanks to Cobb & Co. the mails seemed very reliable.
An extract from the diary of Joseph Bird Burgess. Two days in life of a piano tuner.
Monday 1st January 1872 New Year’s morning. I could scarcely realize this fact. I longed to be home. I always like to spend this season with dear dear M. and the children. I got up pretty early and commenced tuning the Stanhope Piano. It was completely out of tune. After lunch Joe and I started for Colbinabbin. Weather very fine and happily not so dreadfully warm. We found that Mr. and – now, since my last visit, Mrs. John Winter had left this morning for Sandhurst. Most unfortunately neither the servant or the storekeeper knew us. It was with very great difficulty that we could persuade them as to the veracity of my statement viz. that I not only had charge of the Colbinabbin Piano but that I was a friend of Mr. John Winter’s. Producing my last year’s diary to the storekeeper wherein my several visits here were duly noted, that the personage seemed at last convinced that my statement was really bona fide. A good tea was laid out for us but – tell it not in Gath – in the kitchen, Many mercies.
Tuesday 2nd January 1872. Weather not very warm. I tuned the Colbinabbin Piano this morning and afterwards we thoroughly cleaned it. I had put two new strings in the treble. The servant treated us very well having I presume come to the conclusion we were not imposters. Perhaps after all she had not been to blame unpleasant tho’ it proved to us. We started from Colbinabbin this afternoon arriving in Stanhope in first rate time. Old Mr Taylor of Noorilim was there. Joe had thoroughly cleaned the Piano this evening – took out swarms of moth eggs. When Mr. William Winter got his mail this evening I found to my awful disappointment that no letter had arrived for me. I felt quite upset and have positively resolved to go home tomorrow to see what really is the cause of dear dear M’s continued silence. I hope nothing alarming has happened. I played the organ a great deal this evening. I felt awfully tired towards bed-time. All very kind and agreeable. 10000E’s
While at various Homesteads, apart from tuning and repairing the pianos, musical evenings were frequently held and Joseph not only contributed by playing the piano or organ but also by singing.
When one reads of travel by horse and buggy over unmade tracks, sometimes across treeless plains and at others through heavily forested areas, the casual references to Cobb & Co., and consigning of pianos by Paddle Steamer “Warradgery”, the crossing of the Murray River by punt or pontoon bridge, for Railway had not yet penetrated into N.S.W., one learns to appreciate the colourful times in which Joseph and Margaret raised their family.
Ultimately Jack became a piano tuner also and for a great part of his life travelled the same roads as his father before him, though in his case he used a gig instead of a buggy. He always had a bicycle tied to the back of the gig and when in towns such as Mathoura, Deniliquin and Hay, he rode to his various customers thus resting his horse in preparation for the next leg of the journey.
At this point let us look at the part played by the “O’Donohoos” for it was the union of the Burgess and O’Donohoos that is so important to us. The furthest back we know of this family takes us to the late 1700’s for Thomas O’Donahoo would have been born before the end of the century. As a man he became a Captain in the Royal Irish Hussars and did service in Singapore where James, was born in 1820. Captain O’Donohoo was recalled to England. (reason obscure but possible ill health). Soon after, together with his wife Eliza and four children, also a married daughter – Mary Anne Stammers, with her husband and three children, sailed in the Sailing Ship “Eliza” reaching Hobart Town on the 8th April 1828.
Prior to their arrival Captain O’Donohoo was given a grant of 2560 acres land at Sandpit Point on the East Coast. Sad to relate Captain O’Donohoo died 3 years after their arrival leaving Eliza to raise their family. She obtained a grant of 36 pounds per year from the Government and ran a boarding house in Macquarie St. Hobart. Her son Thomas worked as a clerk in the Ordinance Magazine and later at the Colonial Treasury, and again in the Auditors Office. The Colonial Treasury said, “I have every reason to believe him (Thomas O’Donohoo) one of the most efficient clerks in the Colony.” He was able help his mother raise the family.
A younger brother, John, also worked as a clerk but James, was engaged in farming in partnership with a life-long friend and Nephew, J. J. Stammers. Later he left Tasmania to go to South Australia, where he went farming with William Emmett at Lyndock Valley, near ‘The Burra’.
When the Gold era began, James visited the Goldfields in Victoria, only to return to South Australia to persuade his friends, the Emmetts and the Neales to go to Victoria with him. It was about this time (1852) that James married Frances Neale, who had arrived in South Australia with her parents in 1836 in the Ship “Cygnet” a Survey Ship. They spent their honeymoon as 2 members of a party of 19 on a Bullock Wagon journey from ‘The Burra’ to Bendigo – it took 3 months. The diaries kept of this Journey make very interesting reading.
At Bendigo James took to digging. How long he continued in this occupation I have not been able to discover, but James and Fanny apparently never left Bendigo for it was here he died on 6th December 1885 at age 65 and was buried in the Sandhurst Cemetery.
His Obituary describes him as ‘a man of large heart, of genial disposition and of a temperament which enabled him to preserve the same even bearing in good times and bad times and to be ever the same whether Fortune smiled or frowned’.
So much for the man himself but our interest lies in the fact that he and Fanny had 8 children. Adelaide, Ida, May, Nell, Sam, Adgar, Leo and Henry and that Adelaide born in 1856 in Bendigo became the wife of Jack Burgess, also born in Bendigo in 1856. Whether they met as children before the Burgesses moved to Moama I do not know nor how they came to know one another later, but as those of my generation know Jack and Adelaide had 10 children, all survived and had issue, there being 37 Grand Children.
Jack and Adelaide, for as long as I knew them, lived at Yarra Street, Echuca. Apparently Grandpa Burgess was as affectionate and loving as his father before him for Yarra Street was a lovely place to visit for atmosphere of love and kindness had to be experienced. No one could describe it.
I have reason to believe that Grandma Burgess (Adelaide) was one of the first patients in Victoria to be treated for Cancer by means of X-Ray. I remember her very well about that time. It was not a success. She died about 1925-26.
This report was specially written for a Burgess re-union, which was held at the home of Richard and Anne Burgess, 20 Serpells Road, Templestowe, Victoria, on 20th March 1983. 178 descendants including spouses attended, the most senior descendant was Auntie Myrtle, at 93, the only surviving member of the ten children of John James Burgess and Adelaide O”Donohoo. This report was written by: Ken Dyer, 76 Newlands Drive, Paynesville. 3880
And now we have a record of the journey undertaken by James O’Donahoo and his newly wed wife, Frances Neale, who were two of a party of 19 who set out from The Burra, South Australia, to go to Bendigo in the goldfields – a distance of 500 miles (800km).It represents a day to day account of their Progress.
The year was 1852.
Their mode of travel – 1 light cart, 1 horse day, and 6 bullock drays.
I have transcribed parts of this diary:
Monday 2 August 1852
Commenced loading drays Tuesday 3rd.
Nearly finished loading. Intending to start wednesday Wednesday 4th
Should have started but man had not arrived with rest of the drays. He came in his gig
All ready, but horses could not be found till late which made us late. We however had a fine day, and got within 4 or 5 miles of Murray Road. Friday 6th
Having had a rough night, H.D.E. went in search of horses and bullocks, but could not find either the until 10 o’clock, when W.E. and Jack Brought Lucy and Abe’s mare. James O’Donahoo and Charley had started for home, thinking they had gone that way. Miserably cold. O’Donahoo did not return that night. Saturday 7th
Horses being tethered overnight, W.E. went in search of bullocks. Found 4 and also found the water had risen so high that it was impossible to cross the Creek. O’Donahoo did not return that night.
Very cold, wind and rain. All the bullocks seen this day. Sunday 8th
Still blowing very roughly, but every appearance of fine weather. H.
and men made a bush yard to keep the bullocks in should they be found, and be ready to move on early next morning. W.E. and men brought home the bullocks. O’Donahoo and Charlie not returned.
All very anxious about them. Kept horses tethered to go in search of them next day. Monday 9th
W.E. took Lucy and found O’Donahoo who had attempted to cross the creek on Friday but found it impossible, the water having been much higher than ever known before. O’Donahoo took Lucy and returned to the camp, W.E. and Charlie walking. Tuesday 10th
Packed up and started across the plains into the Murray Road, made a journey of about 17 miles and camped. Abe watched the bullocks that night on splendid feed. Turned in about 12 o’clock. Wednesday 11th
Bullocks not found very early, but intended to travel till 4 o’clock. When about 4 miles on the road were stopped by water extending over an immense portion of the plain and were obliged again to camp. Thursday 12th
Hennel (nephew of J. O’Donahoo), O’Donahoo and Dr Lloyd went to explore and search for a road sufficiently hard to allow us to pass. Returned about 3 o’clock and believed we could cross about 14 miles from camp. W.E. went in search of bullocks, found them about 16 miles off towards the Worldend Creek. The country around has a miserable and wild appearance, nothing but salt-bush, occasionally a little scrub. Friday 13th
Started through the scrub, went 10 miles and camped. Saturday 14th
Travelled on until we could cross the plain and camped on account of water. Sunday 15th
Bullocks not found til late, then started and made Murray River at North West Bend. Nearly dark. Monday 16th
Started about 9 o’clock, very much disappointed at not having fish for breakfast, Mr Neale having promised us some. Went on beyond Yates, 18 miles for the day. Camped on the bank of the river. Tuesday 17th
Stayed here all day putting in a pole on Jack’s dray. Again disappointed no fish. Wednesday 18th
Went as far as Hart’s Sheep Station. travelled about 12 miles that day. O’Donahoo shot 3 crested pigeons, Thursday 19th
All ready, bullock drays started. Henry Neale having to go for two sheep but was disappointed, the shepherd having gone out with the sheep. Came back and attempted to start but the colt would not pull. Tried him for a long time, and at last sent for some bullocks to pull him up the hill, but a gentleman travelling with 3 horses told Mr Neale that he would pull the cart up the hill, but his horses would not pull together, and we were obliged to send for the bullocks about 5 miles along the road. W.E. returned with four and hooked them before. This had delayed us four hours that day. The colt then worked pretty well and we got as far as Devsin’s Pound, about 10 miles. Friday 20th
Started about 9 o’clock, the colt refusing for a time to pull. He. however, with a thrashing did, and worked very well. Met Hart with his sheep and bought 2 for16 shillings. Arrived at the overland corner about 3 o’clock, 10 miles. Blacks brought us 1 fish and 7 duck eggs, and promised us more next day. Rained heavily during the night. Saturday 21st
All packed up ready to start by 9 o’clock. The colt working well. roads very heavy (going). Arrived about 12 o’clock within 2 miles of Lake Bonny and camped. Baked nearly half a sheep and made dampers. Again disappointed, the blacks telling us there was too much water, they could not get fish. Commenced raining. Obliged to go to our houses sun-down. W.E. and blackfellows shot 3 o’possums in the evening.
Today being Sunday we were determined not to travel, O’Donahoo took the kangaroo dogs and soon returned with a kangaroo on his shoulders. We saw plenty of ducks but they were extremely wild, also pelicans, cockatoos, crested pigeons, plovers and various other birds. The weather very cold and showery. Gave the kangaroo to the natives except the hind quarters which we kept to cook the next day. Monday 23rd
Packed up and started about 9 o’clock, the colt working very well. Very heavy, sandy and hilly roads through 15 miles of scrub. Arrived at camping place, Freemans Creek at half past four, 18 miles. Fanny O’Donahoo prepared the kangaroo for steaming. The bullock drays did not arrive till 6 o’clock, nearly dark, Rained several times during the afternoon. Tuesday 24th
Started on a dreadfully heavy road at half passed 9. It continued bad and the horses were completely knocked up by 6 o.clock. We were obliged to camp. O’Donahoo shot 2 ducks. We did not travel more than 6 miles this day. Wednesday 25th
O’Donahoo shot 2 pigeons before breakfast. All ready to start at10 o’clock. The colt very obstinate, broke his trace. Stopped to mend it and got onto the road which was as bad as the day before. Obliged to beat the colt very much. Arrived at Chowley about 4 o’clock. Cooked ducks and pigeons and enjoyed them very much. The natives bought some duck eggs.
—– Tuesday 14th September
Henry Neale and W.E. went to Bayot’s Station to kill a bullock to eat, and brought 3 fine steers to yoke. Hennell and Charley went for the horses about 11 o’clock and not returning we became alarmed lest they should have lost their way in the scrub. O’Donahoo went in search of them but could not find any trace. Wednesday 15th
O’Donahoo and natives started at daybreak search of H. and Charley, walked all day but could not discover which way they had gone and returned at sundown. All considered it well to send all the natives, as well as our own people on horse back next morning in search of them. About 10 o’clock we all very pleased to hear H’s voice. They were very tired and hungry not having any thing to eat except a few roots which the natives call amber. Thursday 16th
Started once more on our journey, having only 8 miles to reach Anna Ranch. The 3 steers working very well. The water which supplied Anna Ranch came out of the Murray higher up and again we went into the Murray lower down. You could not see any current the water being very dirty. Friday 17th
About 200 natives were here camped and with their mungoes or canoes ready to cross our baggage, which we accomplished by 4 o’clock, after, the horses and bullocks had to swim across The bullocks were out in the middle and started what is called ‘ringing’ when 3 were drowned. The horses and cows, however, swam across safely. Saturday 18th
All packed up and started about 10 o’clock. Arrived at Darling River at half past 2, having to cross the drays loaded in a punt. Sunday 19th
Camped some on each side of the river. Not very pleasant as the men who worked the punt refused to use it on this day, and all our cooking utensils were on the last drays. We understand it was 300 miles from here to the diggings. The flats near the rivers were completely inundated. Monday 20th
Crossed the remaining drays and travelled on about 3 miles and obliged to camp on account of a large creek, where we were again obliged to unload and cross everything with the native’s canoes. Crossed most of the goods this afternoon. Tuesday 21th
Finished crossing the drays and travelled on a mile or so and again had to unload, having another creek wider than the first. Put two drays across this evening. Wednesday 22nd
Got the rest of the things across and loaded up once more. Travelled on about 10 miles and camped at the entrance of a scrub, the original road being about a mile nearer the river, but completely under water. Thursday 23rd
All ready about 10 o’clock and started, hoping to make the crossing place up the Murray. Travelled on till 1 o’clock, took dinner and heard guns firing. Shortly afterwards several drays camped. There was the Murray about 3 times its usual width and running at a furious rate. Camped and found 16 drays waiting to get across. The Natives were perfectly independent knowing we could not get across without their assistance> Friday 24th
Camped. The water still running very fast. Saturday 25th
The water still rising. Three more drays came up this day. Sunday 26th
Almost devoured by mosquitoes and flies. The Natives very lazy and would not cross more than 3 drays in one day. Monday 27th
O’Donahoo made a punt wishing to put a rope across the Murray by which they could drag the drays. Tuesday 28th
Put down a buoy and attempted to pull the the rope across but the Natives purposely let it fall in the river not liking it to be done. Wednesday 29th
Understand all the drays would be across this day. Thursday 30th
Only one dray crossed this day. Friday 1st October 1852
Very glad to see the horses and bullocks gone and prepared to cross by moving all the drays nearer the river. Saturday 2rd
Commenced crossing the goods in the canoes. Sunday 3rd
Crossed as much as possible. Charley left us. Monday 4th
Expected to finish but the Natives let 2 drays go for a great distance down the stream. Oscar, a horse, kicked Dick. All crossed the river and slept in Mary’s dray. Tuesday 5th
Finished crossing everything but the horses and went across the swamp about one and quarter miles. The water above the bed of the drays. Wednesday 6th
Crossed the horses, Jacky and Oscar (horses) not to be found. Thursday 7th
Mr Blackmore found Jackey about 8 miles on the road and brought him back. Natives stole the long rope belonging to Fitzgerald’s party. Friday 8th
Started at 8 o’clock and went about 16 miles through scrub and camped near a billabong. Saturday 9th
Started about half passed 8 and travelled about 18 miles through a thick scrub. Camped near a sheep station.
—- Thursday 28th
Started about half passed 9. Travelled over an immense plain 10 miles. Saw Mt. Hope and the Sugarloaf. Camped. It started to rain and continued for some time. Friday 29th
Threatened rain. Determined to remain here and towards afternoon terrific thunderstorms. Saturday 30th
Bullock drays started early, we did not overtake them till about 12 o’clock when they stopped at Booth and Mr. Harvey sold Jacky and Charley, a dray and bullocks. Travelled a few miles and camped on the Serpentine River. Sunday 31st
Very anxious to arrive at our journey’s end. Determined to travel and went on as far as the Serpentine Public House, where Dr Lloyd sold Oscar and O’Donahoo sold Lucy. Camped about a mile beyond. Monday 1st November 1852
Started about 9 o’clock and arrived at Bullock Creek, about 22 miles, where we camped. Tuesday 2nd
Quite delighted to find this would be the last day we should have to camp before we reached Bendigo. We arrived at Meyer’s Flat about 2o’clock and camped. about 14 miles Mary and Henry started in the light cart for Bendigo. Henry was driving and unfortunately attempted to cross between two trees, and caught the cart,breaking the springs and were obliged to return. Henry and W.E. went afterwards on horseback. Wednesday 3rd
Started as soon as we could get ready and arrived at Bendigo about 10 o’clock, completely tired of our long journey.
We begin with a flight from Copenhagen. We land at Kangerlussaq, a small airport and harbour at the head of a long fjord in SW Greenland. Greenland is about the size of Western Australia. We are loaded into FWD busses, while our luggage is being transferred to our ship, and are driven up into the Ice Field which covers 90% of the country and is up to 4000 mts. deep, an average of 2800 mts. Can you imagine that much ice covering WA?
This is a 3 hour trip with lunch, in a paper bag. On the way we see Musk Oxen grazing on the green Tundra.
These were the only ones we would see on the whole trip even though there are thousands of them in the northern latitudes. We are soon at the edge of the ice field with cold wind blowing off the ice. Our first introduction to ice was before us.
Back to the Port where we are ferried to m/v Sea Adventurer by Zodiac.
We are on our way immediately after all the mandatory drills.
We have 2 landings, first the little village of Itilleq where there were 2 open houses to have tea and biscuits. Interesting to see how they live.
“We” played soccer on a dry dusty, gravel square and were beaten by the locals.
Next town Sisimuit Pop. 6000. A 2 hour guided tour by the locals covered the library. an interesting museum, the schools, churches and a very sustantial public hall. Second largest town in Greenland but very much a fishing village. We are now 75km north of the Arctic Circle. This is Greenland’s most northerly ice free port. Dutch whalers and traders arrived here in the 17th century.
Captain’s welcome cocktails tonight.
Ilulissat pop.4500 and Jakobshavn Glacier. 350 km north arctic circle.
Ilulissat is at the mouth of 40 km long ice fjord that produces several million tonnes of ice per day, and chunks that break off can produce tidal waves up to ten meters high. We saw a video of such a wave wrecking boats in the local harbour.
Ilulssat, directly translated means Iceberg.
Jakobshavn Glacier drains 6.5% of the Greenland ice sheet and produces 10% of all the Greenland icebergs. 35 billion tonnes of icebergs calve off and pass out the fjord every year.
At times the large icebergs become grounded, sometimes for years until they are broken down by weather and tides or other icebergs crashing into them.
Day 4: A Typical day 500km north of the Arctic circle.
0645 Early morning tea, coffee and pastries available in the lounge
0700 Wake up call
0730 Breakfast is served in the dinning room
0900 Zodiac cruise at the active Eqip Sermia Glacier. This is a fast moving glacier, moving approximately 4 km per annum.
1200 Arctic style BBQ on the aft DecK
1400 Lecture in the lounge: Glaciers, Icebergs and all things icy. 1600 Special Afternoon Tea.
1700 Lecture in the lounge: Greenland, a geographical history. 1845 Daily Recap and next day Briefing.
1930 Dinner is served in the dinning room.
TV Documentaries or a film. Maybe visit to the Bridge or take a chilly stroll on deck to fill in the rest of the day. (the bridge is open 24 hours)
Visit the village of Uummannag, population 1200, on the island of Uummannag. Picturesquely situated under the shadow of Uummannag Mountain which rises to 1170m. The town was founded in 1763 and was originally called Omenak. It is a hunting and fishing town with its own cannery. We had a very pleasant walking tour guided by an Inuit guide. There was also a cultural event which was well attended.
Tomorrow we begin the two day crossing to the Pond Inlet which is beginning of the NW Passage. But not before sailing through some amazing Ice.
A two day sail across Baffin Bay, a little rough early but settled to an easy sail. The usual lectures continued, but mainly a time to take a break, at least for Frances and myself. We have been travelling now for five weeks and need a day off.
About half way across the ship suddenly powers right off and an announcement from the bridge wakes us from our afternoon slumber saying that there is a bear ahead on the sea ice. Everyone, not already on deck, soon join those who are. Excitement mounts as we slowly approach the ice flow. The Captain stops the engines so we don’t disturb our Polar Bear. We hang around for an hour and watch as he wanders around oblivious to our presence. He is 100nm from land and waiting for a seal to appear on the ice for lunch. The Polar Bear is classed as a marine mammal. They are at home living on sea ice catching seals.
Pond Inlet, Nunavut Canada
Customs come aboard to stamp our passports and formalise our entry into Canada. Then its into the Zodiacs to go ashore and a beach landing. Gumboots (supplied) required for a wet landing.
A presentation by Parks Canada, Cultural event, walk the town, check the supermarket, always interesting, treated with hot tea, bannok, muktuk and some other country foods. All good.
Nunavat is the largest, northernmost, newest and least populous territory of Canada consisting of northern canada and many large islands. It is the same size as Western Australia, has a population of 32,000, mostly Inuit. The area includes the Northwest Passage
Now the history of the search for the Northwest Passage is full on with lectures and documentaries to fill our day. We are sailing as far as possible, the route taken by the ill fated ships of Sir John Franklin’s voyage.
Day 8: Dundas Harbour. Dundas Harbour is a former Royal Canadian Mounted Police outpost. We explore what remains of police buildings, accommodation, workshops, stores and dog compounds. The buildings are in poor condition. there are two graves. one of a policeman who died accidentally and another who committed suicide. What a lonely life in desolation this would have been.
We moved round the corner to Croker Bay where a musk ox was sited along with a polar bear.
Anchored in Ryder Inlet, Maxwell Bay. 74deg. 46.6′ N 088deg.
We are now about 500 nautical miles (910 km.) north of the arctic circle.
We set off at 9:00am in the Zodiacs to search for walrus. Only one was sighted (not by me), a young one in the water. However a number of seals, including a bearded seal, a pomarine jaeger, falcon, guillemots, snow geese, glaucous gulls, and a mother and cub polar bear.
Day 10: Radstock Bay A 6:30 start for a couple of the Expedition Staff who left in a zodiac to scout for Walrus but alas none were found in the area so Sea Adventurer continued onto Devon Island. A swell was running both at the ship and on shore so disciplined embarkation and disembarkation was called for. All safely ashore we found remains of meat caches and tent rings of the Inuit people. We were also entertained by an Arctic Hare who hopped around amongst us while continuing to feed, mainly on moss.
All safely on board for lunch and sail to Beechey Island. On shore we find the graves of three of Franklin sailors, one from Investigator and Bellot’s memorial grave. Once finished at this location, we were shuttled by Zodiac to the site of Franklin’s first winter camp, and the remains of Northumberland House, left here with supplies in 1854 by North Star, part of Belcher’s search expedition.
Day 11: Leopold Island Cliffs These cliffs, 120 meters tall rising up from the sea are loaded with nesting birds, some of which have already left their roost. The Birdo’s logged: the very active black guillemots, northern fulmars, and glaucous gulls.
Later in the day we sail into Port Leopold observing, first a mother bear and two cubs, followed by a large pod of Beluga whales. The bears disappear over a hill, so we took to the zodiacs to head off the belugas as they headed out of the bay along the coast. Ten Zodiacs full speed down the bay was a sight on its own.
We picked a suitable posi about 30 or 40 meters off the shore and we waited and we waited. They were taking their time.
Here they come
And here they are, everywhere, even under the Zodiacs.
And then they were gone!
Day 12: Fort Ross – Bellot Strait – Prince of Wales Is.
These sites are dripping with history. Kennedy and Bellot were here in 1852 while on a search expedition, funded by Jane Franklin, looking for evidence of Sir John Franklin’s two lost ships, the Erebus and Terror, and crew of 130 men, from his expedition in 1845.
Copy from a previous post. Posted 23/12/2014
A brief history The first recorded attempt to discover the Northwest Passage was the east-west voyage of John Cabot in 1497, sent by Henry VII in search of a direct route to the Orient. There were a dozen other expeditions that followed during the 16th and 17th century. More expeditions in the 18th century, including one by Captain James Cook in 1788, failed to find a passage. In the 19th century many expeditions, including one by Sir John Franklin, on land and sea, found and charted some areas for a possible passage. In 1845 a lavishly equipped two-shipped expedition led by Sir John Franklin sailed the Erubus and Terror to the Canadian Arctic to chart the unknown areas of the Northwest Passage. They sailed fully confident with only 500 km of coast still to chart. The ships failed to return. Relief expeditions were sent over the next century and a half and many artifacts, records, notes and remains were found.
Franklin had died in 1847 and Captain Crozier had taken command. The ships became fast in ice. The decision was made to abandon ship and the men made their way south across the tundra by sledge. All were lost. Some of the crew may not have died until the early 1850’s. No evidence had been found of any survivors. Starvation, exposure and scurvy all contributed to the deaths. Later examination of three bodies exhumed from permafrost on Beechey Island revealed high concentrations of lead in all three. (the expedition carried 8,000 tins of food sealed with lead-based solder) Oh dear
Exploration continued for the remainder of the century and a route was discovered, when in 1854, Sir Edward Belcher made a transit of the Northwest Passage albeit by ship and by sledge over the ice, becoming the first people to circumnavigate the Americas. The first explorer to conquer the passage solely by boat was the Norwegian explorer Roanld Amundsen. It was a three year journey between 1903 and 1906 in a small boat, the ‘Gjoa’ with 6 men. He figured he would have to live off the land and a small crew would be easier to feed.
He spent almost two years stuck in ice at King William Island before breaking through the passage. Although he had achieved a traversing of the passage, the route was not suitable for commercial use, because many of the waterways were only 3 feet deep.
Canadian Henry Larson was the second person to sail the passage, leaving Vancouver 23 June 1940 and arriving Halifax on 11 October 1942. (28 months) He made the return trip from Halifax to Vancouver in 1944 in a greatly reduced time of 86 days. This made him the first to traverse the passage in one season. He used a more northerly, and partly uncharted route for his second crossing.
Back to Fort Ross.
This site was also used by McClintock as his wintering site during his Franklin search expedition of 1857. A family memorial is also at this site. In 1937 the Hudson’s Bay Company set up a trading post and made the first vessel transit of Bellot Strait. The trading post lasted for 11 years, after some Inuit were unsuccessfully forcibly relocated here. Inuit people used the area for hunting, and their meat caches and tent rings dot the site, Inuit still use one of the Hudson’s Bay huts for hunting caribou and musk ox.
Wet landing and walking
Day 14: Gjoa Haven
A nice and friendly small town named after Amundsen’s boat, the ‘Gjoa’. He had spent two winters learning the customs and skills of the Inuits. He became very friendly and close to the inhabitants, and went on to be the first man to sail through the NW Passage.
Day 15: Cambridge Bay:
Another day, another Bay, another beautiful village greets us as we go ashore, More colourful people going about their business and who are willing to show us around and answer our many questions, and put on a cultural show or display for us.
We have been moving further south for the last few days and the nights are getting much darker. We are becoming optimistic about seeing some aurors appearing over the north polar areas. Well it happened around midnight. A call from the bridge woke us all from our slumbers for Aurora Borealis.
And there are still some bears around.
We sail on through Johansen Bay where we sight a Grizzly Bear on shore, most unexpedly, along with three wolves in the same area. I don’t know who was chasing who. We sailed on into Amundsen Gulf to complete the passage and then turn around the final few miles sail to Kuglugtuk where our magnificent expedition ends.
In September 2014 the hull of HMS Erebus was found on the southern end of of King William Island. The Canadian Coast Guard continue to search for HMS Terror.
Day 1. Tuesday
Hong Kong Holiday Inn, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon.
Wet all day after a good Flight from Sydney. Walked some markets on the way to Science Museum. Very good, lot of hands
on displays. History Museum next door was closed for the day.
Walking in the rain. Peking Road to Ferries Harbour area, Canton Road, Kowloon Park, Temple Street and train back to hotel
from Jordan Road to Tsim Sha Tsui Station. Afternoon drying out.
Would you believe raining again. Hong Kong History Museum today. Very well done, impressive and informative. Managed to
avoid shopping centers, but there several Jewelry shops in close proximity. I dont know if I have managed to avoid them yet.
Well I mean Frances that is. But be positive though, buy on day 3 and no more worries for the next 56. I am happy really!
We leave the Hotel today at 5:30pm to fly to Paris departing 10:40. In the meantime the rain has stopped and so we get in
some real time touristing. We walk our side of the harbour and marvel at the spectacular high rise architecture on
Hong Kong Island. Walked the Avenue of Stars along the Harbour shore.
We get away on time with Air France. This was the most uncomfortable flight I have ever experienced.
(the Seat was like sitting on a bench and narrow).
Paris France: Saturday
We were met by our friend Catherine at a City Train Station, and were whisked off to her apartment in an Electric Car. These cars are
hired on an hourly or daily basis and are cheaper than Taxis. A bit like the bicycle hire in Brisbane. Pre book the car, pick up within 30 minutes and park at a predetermined booked park. Catherine lives only a ten minute walk from the river Seine and ten from the Eiffel tower. How good is that? Lots of side walk Cafe’s.
A quiet day to end the week. Catherine took us to a local Farmers market very close to here and stocked up with fruit,
vegetables, meat and bread. A nap in the afternoon before a short walk to watch a section of the final day of the
Tour de France.
Day 7. Monday
Our Hostess is at work today. We visit the Eiffel Tower up close this time, a thousand people cueing for tickets to climb
or take a lift to the top. Certainly a huge structure. I made do with photos. We finished the day with an enjoyable meal
at a local Restaurant.
Last day in Paris. Long walk. Arc de Triomphe, Avenue Des Champs Elysees, Place De Concord, Musee du Louvre, and many
other beautiful, majestic buildings.
Next stop 4 days in Prague, the City of 100 Spires. Easy walking, convenient Trams and Metro.
Top Spots include: Old Town Square – Prague Castle – Charles Bridge – Jewish Town.
A beautiful City full of history.
The Viking River Cruise
Our next phase is to join Viking ‘Beyla’ to sail to Berlin on the Elbe river at Dresden. Bad news is that the river is too low due to lack of rain, so three nights here then a bus to another boat conveniently stranded downstream.
Excursions include the Jewish Town of Zidovske Mestro, Bastei Rock Formations, walking tour of Dresdin City. Another historic city with the old, the new, and with restoration still going on after the devastation of war.
A long bus trip to Wittenberg to join Viking ‘Astrid’ on the Elbe river. Still no Water in the river. Excursion to the interesting town of Meissen and visit a porcelain factory on the way.
Three days of 37C degree heat. Visits to towns of Torgau, Worlitz, where the Soviet and American Armies met and shook hands on the banks of the Elbe River before the end of the war, and Potsdam where the treaty was signed by the Soviet, British and Americans Representatives after the war ended.
On to Berlin. A lot of war WW2 history like the Brandenburg
Gate, Check Point Charlie and the Berlin Wall which remained until 1989. Berlin is a new modern City, much of it built in the last 20 years, unlike many of the Cities like Dresden which were rebuilt and restored in the old original style of Architecture.
Here we end the Viking Cruise/Bus trip. Disappointing that the ship went no-where and all our travelling had to be done by bus. Viking did their best with good food and good fellowship and good guides. But it can never be the same, particularly for first time River Cruising passengers. Compensation? Well $1000.00 off our next cruise, if booked before August 2016. It is pathetic! Really, we may never be able to do that.
Next stop is Hamburg.
The train from Berlin is a very smooth ride and takes about 1 hour 45 minutes with speeds up to 225 klm/hr.
Hamburg is beautiful City with a huge harbour. Germany still has a very large manufacturing industry and Hamburg is the trading
City and the reason for such a large port. The very friendly people are easy to talk to and they enquire about Australia. All
would like to travel to Australia but say we are too far away. We think the same way, but we are here and it is well worth the
Another train to Copenhagen. This takes about fives hours, through flat rich rural country and small towns, and involves the
train driving onto a ferry along with cars and trucks. The crossing takes 45 minutes and drives off in Denmark. Another hour and a
half and we are in Copenhagen. We spend a day on the streets and canals, after a ride into town on the metro. The metro has a
network of rail lines traversing the city. The network is entirely automatic, ie no drivers, and they run ever 5 minutes.
Highlights include the streets and canals of cause, the Castles and Museums and then there is Tivoli Gardens in the city center where
its on for young and old well into the night.
Frances and I are very proud that our Daughter has been recognized by her Peers, and has been inducted as a Fellow of Australian Academy of Sciences. This occurred in Canberra on 25th May 2015.
ASPS congratulates Professor Christine Beveridge
Dear ASPS member,
I would like to congratulate Professor Christine Beveridge on being elected to the Australian Academy of Sciences this week. Her research has overturned the dogma on apical dominance and introduced both sugar and strigalactones into the picture through her innovative experimental approaches and determination. Challenging long held beliefs is not easy, but elegant experimental results eventually could not be ignored. Not often does one see the text book representation getting this sort of update.
John Evans, Australian Society of Plant Scientists
Fellows elected in 2015
On 25 May 2015, the Australian Academy of Science announced the election of 21 new Fellows for their outstanding contributions to science and scientific research.
Professor Christine Beveridge FAA
School of Biological Studies, The University of Queensland
Christine Beveridge is a world leader on the hormonal control of plant development, discovering a new hormone and demonstrating how shoot architecture, which underpins the yield, productivity and value of crops, trees and shrubs, is controlled.
Christine Beveridge is a world leader on the hormonal control of plant development and shoot architecture which underpins the yield, productivity or ornamental value of crops, trees and shrubs. Shoot architecture is controlled by the formation, release and then growth of lateral buds into branches. Christine’s work shows that bud release is prevented when sugars are limited, and occurs only when the plant has an excess of sugars. The subsequent growth depends on the right balance of plant hormones. One of these hormones, strigolactone, was discovered through her research on the genetics and physiology of branching mutants.
BIO—Professor Christine Beveridge researches the hormonal control of plant development, particularly shoot architecture. She and her colleagues at the University of Queensland’s School of Biological Sciences have made two major discoveries that have transformed the field. The first is the discovery of strigolactones – a new plant hormone. She has shown that this hormone affects shoot architecture and other important developmental traits such as lateral rooting, adventitious rooting and secondary growth (wood production). The second major discovery is causing a paradigm shift in thinking of shoot architecture, namely that the initial growth of axillary buds is prevented where sugars are limited; branch development only commences under conditions of sufficient sugar availability. These discoveries will be used in the tailoring of shoot branching for improving yield, productivity and ornamental value of crops, trees and shrubs.
Well my old mates still call me Neddy, But I don’t often see them these days unless I am in New Zealand, where the name originated, or in Tasmania where it still lingers on. New acquaintances who hear the name always ask the question, where did Neddy come from?
Well here he is. The one on the right. He originated at a University Capping Day in Christchurch in about 1957. He was supposed to be an Australian Swaggie, you can see that can’t you, but instead the locals called me Ned Kelly and later Neddy evolved. Such is Life!
There is a connection between Ned Kelly and the Beveridge Family, in that Ned was born in the town of Beveridge in Victoria.
Heritage listed shack in Beveridge, Victoria. Built by bushranger Ned Kelly’s Father in 1859, and was for sale in 2014 and expected to bring $650000.
Canal Boats are a great way of seeing the English countryside at a very leisurely pace as you wind your way through farms and villages. The boats are set up with all the conveniences you need and are easy to handle.
Frances and I have had 2 experiences of two weeks each time, hiring narrowboats. The first was in July 2002, and was on the very popular Llangollen Canal hiring a boat from Whitchurch, and a later hire on the Warwickshire Ring picking our boat up at Rugby, in May 2008. I am sure there will be another time before too long.
It’s time again to make some plans
to visit another far off land.
Maybe a place not seen before,
a long way off on a distant shore.
I could go east, or I could go west;
I wonder which would be the best,
but then again I may go north
just to see what may bring forth.
I have crossed the Arctic circle
off Norway’s northern shore,
and braved the arctic breezes
from Alaska’s northern seas,
and I have been from east to west
across Siberian plains,
but I need a bit more north-ing
to flow into my veins.
So I thought about the passage,
you know- ‘The Northwest Passage’
where Franklin met his fate.
A place I’ve yearned to visit,
for many years of late.
It turns out now its possible
to emulate this feat with others
of like mind upon a modern ship.
The planning is in the early days,
as I tie up all loose ends,
but it looks like its a goer
and the plan we’ll come to see,
and what an awesome venture
that this will surely be.
Frances and I are planning a trip from Greenland to Edmonton in Canada, via The Northwest Passage in August 2015 on ‘MS Sea Adventurer’.
A brief History:
In 1984 the commercial passenger vessel, MS Explorer, was the first cruise ship to navigate the Northwest Passage.
The first recorded attempt to discover the Northwest Passage was the east-west voyage of John Cabot in 1497, sent by Henry VII in search of a direct route to the Orient. There were a dozen other expeditions that followed during the 16th and 17th century. More expeditions in the 18th century, including one by Captain James Cook in 1788, failed to find a passage. In the 19th century many expeditions, including one by Sir John Franklin, on land and sea, found and charted some areas for a possible passage.
In 1845 a lavishly equipped two-shipped expedition led by Sir John Franklin sailed to the Canadian Arctic to chart the unknown areas of the Northwest Passage. They sailed fully confident with only 500 km of coast still to chart. The ships failed to return. Relief expeditions were sent over the next century and a half and many artifacts, records, notes and remains were found.
Franklin had died in 1847 and Captain Crozier had taken command. The ships became fast in ice. The decision was made to abandon ship and the men made their way south across the tundra by sledge. All were lost. Some of the crew may not have died until the early 1850’s. No evidence has been found of any survivors. Starvation. exposure and scurvy all contributed to the deaths. Later examination of three bodies exhumed from permafrost on Beechey Island revealed high concentrations of lead in all three. (the expedition carried 8,000 tins of food sealed with lead-based solder) Oh dear
Exploration continued for the remainder of the century and a route was discovered, when in 1854, Sir Edward Belcher made a transit of the Northwest Passage albeit by ship and by sledge over the ice, becoming the first people to circumnavigate the Americas.
The first explorer to conquer the passage solely by boat was the Norwegian explorer Roanld Amundsen. It was a three year journey between 1903 and 1906 in a small boat with 6 men. He figured he would have to live off the land and a small crew would be easier to feed. . He spent almost two years stuck in ice at King William Island. Although he had achieved a traversing of the passage, the route was not suitable for commercial use, because many of the waterways were only 3 feet deep.
Canadian Henry Larson was the second person to sail the passage, leaving Vancouver 23 June 1940 and arriving Halifax on 11 October 1942. (28 months) He made the return trip from Halifax to Vancouver in 1944 in a greatly reduced time of 86 days. This made him the first to traverse the passage in one season. He used a more northerly, and partly uncharted route for his second crossing.
It would take another 50 years before the passage was really openfor businessso to speak . Now with satellite mapping of ice flows, better charted waters, climate warming and high tek navigation make this adventure safer and less challenging.
15 Feb 2015
This is the route we will be sailing. The 20 day adventure departs from Itilleq in Greenland and arrives in Kugluktuk (Copper Mine) in Canada. Cruise departs August 18, 2015. We will leave home on July 20 travelling via Hong Kong, Paris, Prague, Berlin, Hamburg and Copenhagen to catch a charter flight to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, just 37 miles north of the Arctic Circle where we transfer to the ‘Sea Adventurer’. We will return via Edmonton, Vancouver and Hawaii. Round the World in 58 Days.