Canal Boats are a great way of seeing the English countryside at a very leisurely pace as you wind your way through farms and villages. The boats are set up with all the conveniences you need and are easy to handle.
Frances and I have had 2 experiences of two weeks each time, hiring narrowboats. The first was in July 2002, and was on the very popular Llangollen Canal hiring a boat from Whitchurch, and a later hire on the Warwickshire Ring picking our boat up at Rugby, in May 2008. I am sure there will be another time before too long.
It’s time again to make some plans
to visit another far off land.
Maybe a place not seen before,
a long way off on a distant shore.
I could go east, or I could go west;
I wonder which would be the best,
but then again I may go north
just to see what may bring forth.
I have crossed the Arctic circle
off Norway’s northern shore,
and braved the arctic breezes
from Alaska’s northern seas,
and I have been from east to west
across Siberian plains,
but I need a bit more north-ing
to flow into my veins.
So I thought about the passage,
you know- ‘The Northwest Passage’
where Franklin met his fate.
A place I’ve yearned to visit,
for many years of late.
It turns out now its possible
to emulate this feat with others
of like mind upon a modern ship.
The planning is in the early days,
as I tie up all loose ends,
but it looks like its a goer
and the plan we’ll come to see,
and what an awesome venture
that this will surely be.
Frances and I are planning a trip from Greenland to Edmonton in Canada, via The Northwest Passage in August 2015 on ‘MS Sea Adventurer’.
A brief History:
In 1984 the commercial passenger vessel, MS Explorer, was the first cruise ship to navigate the Northwest Passage.
The first recorded attempt to discover the Northwest Passage was the east-west voyage of John Cabot in 1497, sent by Henry VII in search of a direct route to the Orient. There were a dozen other expeditions that followed during the 16th and 17th century. More expeditions in the 18th century, including one by Captain James Cook in 1788, failed to find a passage. In the 19th century many expeditions, including one by Sir John Franklin, on land and sea, found and charted some areas for a possible passage.
In 1845 a lavishly equipped two-shipped expedition led by Sir John Franklin sailed to the Canadian Arctic to chart the unknown areas of the Northwest Passage. They sailed fully confident with only 500 km of coast still to chart. The ships failed to return. Relief expeditions were sent over the next century and a half and many artifacts, records, notes and remains were found.
Franklin had died in 1847 and Captain Crozier had taken command. The ships became fast in ice. The decision was made to abandon ship and the men made their way south across the tundra by sledge. All were lost. Some of the crew may not have died until the early 1850’s. No evidence has been found of any survivors. Starvation. exposure and scurvy all contributed to the deaths. Later examination of three bodies exhumed from permafrost on Beechey Island revealed high concentrations of lead in all three. (the expedition carried 8,000 tins of food sealed with lead-based solder) Oh dear
Exploration continued for the remainder of the century and a route was discovered, when in 1854, Sir Edward Belcher made a transit of the Northwest Passage albeit by ship and by sledge over the ice, becoming the first people to circumnavigate the Americas.
The first explorer to conquer the passage solely by boat was the Norwegian explorer Roanld Amundsen. It was a three year journey between 1903 and 1906 in a small boat with 6 men. He figured he would have to live off the land and a small crew would be easier to feed. . He spent almost two years stuck in ice at King William Island. Although he had achieved a traversing of the passage, the route was not suitable for commercial use, because many of the waterways were only 3 feet deep.
Canadian Henry Larson was the second person to sail the passage, leaving Vancouver 23 June 1940 and arriving Halifax on 11 October 1942. (28 months) He made the return trip from Halifax to Vancouver in 1944 in a greatly reduced time of 86 days. This made him the first to traverse the passage in one season. He used a more northerly, and partly uncharted route for his second crossing.
It would take another 50 years before the passage was really openfor businessso to speak . Now with satellite mapping of ice flows, better charted waters, climate warming and high tek navigation make this adventure safer and less challenging.
15 Feb 2015
This is the route we will be sailing. The 20 day adventure departs from Itilleq in Greenland and arrives in Kugluktuk (Copper Mine) in Canada. Cruise departs August 18, 2015. We will leave home on July 20 travelling via Hong Kong, Paris, Prague, Berlin, Hamburg and Copenhagen to catch a charter flight to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, just 37 miles north of the Arctic Circle where we transfer to the ‘Sea Adventurer’. We will return via Edmonton, Vancouver and Hawaii. Round the World in 58 Days.
A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike.
And all plans, safeguards, policies and coercion are fruitless.
We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip;
a trip takes us.
– John Steinbeck.
During the next few weeks I will be posting some extracts from the diary of our expedition to Antarctica on a Russian Icebreaker in January/ February 1998.
The ship Kapitan Khlebnikov is classed amongst the world’s powerful icebreakers. She was built in Finland in 1981. Length: 132.49 metres, Breadth: 26.5 metres, Draught: 8.5 metres, Displacement: 18,000 tons, Cruising speed: 16 knots, Full icebreaker class, 2 Helicopters on board, 6 Mark V heavy duty zodiacs. 60 Russian crew members, 12 Expedition Staff, 4 Helicopter pilots. 1 Doctor. And 100 passengers.
22 January 1998.
What a welcoming sight for the start of an adventure of a lifetime, as we turned onto Macquarie Wharf in Hobart to see a large yellow and black ship dominating the skyline. She was a tough looking vessel easily capable of negotiating the world’s roughest seas and crashing through miles of the densest pack-ice.
We are soon aboard, checking our very comfortable cabins, stowing luggage and a tour of the decks. looks good for the next three weeks. A pre-departure briefing, meeting the staff and the other formalities were soon over. Departure was at 18:15 and we watched Hobart slowly disappear. Life jacket and our first life-boat drill was next, followed by dinner at 19:30. We were on our way.
It has always been a long held ambition of mine to sail to the south polar regions and to visit Antarctica, and I had a partner who has grown to become as keen as I was, thank you Frances. I had always suffered from seasickness in my younger years, but I started dinghy sailing with my son, Philip, at our local yacht club and overcame the problem. Our subsequent sailing experiences over the next 20 years is a subject for another time. So we are on our way and not being afflicted with sea sickness was a definite advantage on this occasion.
Out of the Derwent River turn to starboard and head south, then after clearing Bruny Island we are in the Great Southern Ocean and beginning to roll, not too serious yet but a taste of what’s to come. The meal was the first of many fine meals.
The morning bought forth sunshine and a gently rolling sea and no land to be seen. Some were having trouble finding their sea legs, and were a little under the weather. However there was a good turnout to a hearty breakfast. Time for a stroll around the deck in an already chilly breeze, before our first lecture.
The lecture theater was full to hear Luke Saffigna, a naturalist from Hobart, deliver a talk about Macquarie Island and its new World Heritage listing. We were to find out later this was a really special place. Nick Mooney, an Ornithologist also from Hobart, followed later with a talk entitled Petrelheads, which inspired the Birdos among us.
The afternoon was free and many took the opportunity to visit the bridge and for some wildlife spotting. The bridge is open 24 hours a day to visit and practice a bit of Russian and talk navigation and all that stuff with crew who are also keen to practice their English. The Expedition Leader, Stewart Campbell can often be found on the bridge and is always good for a chat.
Wildlife spotted for the day included: Black-browed and Wandering Albatross, Little Shearwaters and White-chinned Petrels. ‘Whalo’ was called when two rare beaked whales were spotted and identified by our experienced Assistant Expedition Leader – Jennifer Clement – from Long Island, NY, USA. Other sightings included a strange looking orange buoy and a fur seal.
This evening we all met in the lounge for the Welcome Cocktail Party, hosted by Captain Viktor Vasil’yew, followed by a sumptuous Captains Welcome Dinner.
We retired to our cabin which was located on deck 5, amid ship under the bridge. It was a large square cabin, with bathroom and bedroom along the back and a lounge with an L shaped desk, a settee, 2 easy chairs and 2 opening portholes to front. It had all the electrics, phone, intercom, comfortable bed and every thing you could wish for. It was a fabulous cabin really, but we would find out later that in rough weather it was far too big.
24 January, At Sea
The temperature had dropped markedly and the swell had increased, but we were experiencing surprisingly good conditions for the Southern Ocean, with the ship averaging a very good speed of 12 knots.
Our lectures today included an important briefing on the protocol of wildlife viewing, and general guidelines on Macquarie Island. Sid Kirby, a very experienced Antarctic adventurer, from Flaxton in Queensland, told stories of his experiences on the cold continent and his crossings from Hobart on much smaller vessels. Sid was a dog sled driver in the days before mechanical transportation became available. Margie Morrice a Hobart Marine Biologist gave us all the information about the Southern Elephant Seals on Macquarie Island, and how they have adapted to their current conditions.
Wildlife today included a pod of Killer Whales. They appeared to be fishing as we sailed right through the pod. Then there were the Mottled Petrel and Grey Petrels. These small birds hang around the ship, possibly waiting for some handouts from the kitchen disposals.
Much of the rest of the day was spent in preparation for our landing in the sub-Antarctic, with briefings from Stewart on clothing and safety guidelines for Zodiac operations.
Below decks, people are meeting and forming lasting friendships. Tomorrow will be an exciting day with our landing on Macquarie Island.
25 January, Macquarie Island
The most wretched place of involuntary and slavish exilium
that can possibly be conceived;
nothing could warrant any civilised creature living on such a spot. -Captain Douglas, about Macquarie Island 1822.
Many were up very early to catch that first glimpse of Macquarie Island and were rewarded with the sight of Royal and King Penguins porpoising along next to the ship. The island soon slowly appeared from the cloud and the fog. It seemed everyone was up as we sailed into Buckles Bay and got our first good look at this sub-Antarctic Island. And would you believe a pod of Killer Whales swam close by as we dropped anchor. ANARE station, home to 15 people during the winter months and up to 40 scientists and support staff over the summer months, is clearly visible, as is the historic North Head and Wireless Hill, where Sir Douglas Mawson set his radio station during the 1914 Australian Antarctic Expedition. Old donga lines and nissan huts are still in use and the latest technology is represented by the massive Geodesic satellite dish dome.
To most of us the first landing was a thrill to behold, with cameras loaded and film in our pockets the adventure had moved to the next phase. For some of the others, the sheer fact of standing on land again was a huge relief. We will never forget wandering among King Penguins and Rockhopper Penguins in Garden Cove. They are very inquisitive and follow you around and peck at our boots but generally make an incessant, continuous noise and then there is the strong odour. There were also the Gentoos and smaller Royal Penguins with a little crown on their heads. Bird life was represented by the GiantPetrels and Skuas (the scavengers). Light-mantled Sooty Albatross (Sootys), Terns and Prions.
Old machinery and boilers from the sealing days lay about amongst the tall arctic grasses, as do the huge Elephant Seals.
Time for a quick look around the station, buy some stamps and souvenirs at the post office, before we are hurried back to the ‘Khleb’ in the Zodiacs. We then sailed slowly down the East coast of the Island in the hope we may go ashore again, but a sudden gail put pay to that idea, so we cruised carefully back to our safe anchorage to spend a quiet peaceful night. But not before a lot of chatter and comparing of the days events. Check out our ships Doctor talking to the penguins.
Early rise today, the gale has abated and we slowly make our way south again and anchor in Sandy Bay. Its OK to go ashore this morning to view two large breeding colonies of Royals and Kings and a large group of Elephant Seals. There are 40,000 penguins in the Royal colony all flapping and screeching and protecting their chicks from the ever persistent skuas. Further south we drift past the 160,000 colony of Kings, with their accompanying odor. So with our fill of Macquarie Island we head off into the Southern Ocean to continue rolling South.
The afternoon lecture was about the southern lights (Aurora Australis), and we were encouraged to keep a lookout for the phenomenon. Would you believe that night at 21:00 we had a perfect display in the southern skies.
Routine has established an eat, sleep, lecture, eat, sleep, lecture, spotting wildlife, pattern, which will continue for the remainder of the trip. Our next expectation will be an iceberg. It is day 6 and we are in the vicinity of the Antarctic Convergence line, where the very cold Antarctic waters meet the warmer sub-Antarctic waters, which creates a nutrient-rich zone that supports a concentration of life. Sure enough pilot whales and beaked whales were sighted. The sea temperature today is 2 deg Celsius. It has been another great day and worth a beer or two.
Pushing through sea ice.
28 – January
The ice was here, the ice was there,
the ice was all around.
It cracked and growled and roared and howled
like noises in a swound.
– Samuel Coleridge – The Ancient Mariner.
A big turnout again for breakfast this morning, in expectation of an eventful day ahead. The seas had settled considerably with slushy, melting sea ice smoothing the waters. The bridge was a popular place with an increase in Antarctic birdlife and the presents of Minke whales and a pod of Humpbacks venturing close to the ship. Lectures continued and included a talk from Mike Prebble, from New Zealand, on the history of the exploration huts and the Antarctic Treaty System. we also had a briefing on helicopter protocol and the safety considerations. We were to fly over Balleny Island this afternoon but the weather became unfavorable so that trip was aborted. The bar was well supported this evening, it’s amazing what a difference a flat sea makes, as conviviality and frivolity continued into the night. Not that the nights are very long because we are well into the hours of the midnight sun.
This morning I was on the bridge for my regular search of the horizon, after all it is what I have always done at sea, when to my surprise I sighted land in the distant south. We are still 100 miles from Antarctica, so a query of my sighting to the officer of the watch confirmed it was land. He tweaked the radar up to the 120 nautical mile setting and sure enough there it was. It was a beautiful, clear, sunny morning and it soon became an awe-inspiring sight of the distant mountains of Victoria Land, on Antarctica, at the amazing distance of 100 nm away. We are heading towards Cape Adare where we will make our first Zodiac landing on the Continent. Wildlife is becoming more abundant as we are closer to the continent. Penguins, birds, orcas, seals, whales, any time any direction there is always something to see.
Cape Adare is on the northern tip of the Ross Sea, and was the sight of the first over-wintering expedition in Antarctica, led by Carsten Borchgrevink, on the Southern Cross expedition of 1899. It is also the sight of a colony of 1,000,000 Adelie Penguins. As we get closer we sight the hut and get a whiff of the penguins.
This an amazing place when ashore. The small hut and is in exceptional condition and the sight of 1,000,000 penguins, well its awesome, unbelievable, I guess you had to be there.
Glittering white, shining blue, raven black,
in the light of the sun the land looks like a fairy tale.
Pinnacle after pinnacle, peak after peak, crevasses,
wild as any land on our globe,
it lies unseen and untrodden.
– Ronald Amundsen.
Flavor of the day were Minkes, humpbacks and killers with one addition, and that was a solitary Emperor Penguin. It is not the season for Emperors, but we did see a few now and then.
Today was to be our our first helicopter adventure, and we were not disappointed. We flew over Coulmen Island, with its hanging glaciers, huge, sheer cliffs and ice falls. This island is a breeding ground for the Emperor Penguin. Meanwhile the ‘Khleb’ is punching her way through 1 meter thick ice, with ease I might add, on our way to Franklin Island.
Franklin Island; We had to wait until mid morning for a strong wind to abate, it was blowing ice onto our small beach, before we could attempt a landing. We can get four seasons in one day, and often do, but we have 24 hours of sunlight so we are not going to run out of daylight. Even though our body clock knows when its bed time.
The procedure for a landing goes something like this: Firstly the ‘Khleb’ positions for a safe exit if required. Then a couple of Zodiacs go ashore and find a suitable area to land, where the beach is not too steep, or where we won’t be blocked in by ice and is generally safe. They then unload a heap of safety gear and emergency supplies just in case of a stranding and a gale prevents a helicopter rescue. All this is done very quickly and efficiently, then its time to go ashore. This time its an Adelie Penguin rookery with a tall ice cliff at the end of the beach. Our next stop was to be the Ross Ice Shelf.
The Ross Ice Shelf, was named after James Clark Ross, who explored the area in 1841. It is a floating piece of ice with a 500 km coast. It is over 40 m thick and has an area greater than the size of France. The ice shelf is actually a huge glacier. It is fed by hundreds of glaciers flowing from the mountains of Antarctica, and it was the original route taken by the early explorers to reach the mainland of the continent.
The ‘Khleb’ cruised slowly along the cliff face, and later in the day the helicopters ferried us to a spectacular landing on to the wind swept ice. The temperature with wind chill factor was minus 30 deg Celsius. We kept warm by striking out towards the south pole and drinking hot rum cocktails. It bought home to us what the early explorers had to endure. What an impressive and vast landscape this is, and how daunting it would have been, those many years ago.
1 – February
An Antarctic Expedition is the worst way to have the best time of your life. – Apsley Cherry-Gerrard.
Today we will attempt three landings on the western side of Ross Island. Cape Bird has another Adelie colony and the New Zealand field base. Skuas on the beach are guarding their fluffy chicks and we try to avoid being divebombed. The skuas are the garbage collectors, cleaning up any dead or weak birds or animals. Are penguins birds or animals? They don’t fly, but they lay eggs, they are fast swimmers, but are not fish, a clue – they have feathers. They are of course flightless birds.
Cape Royds: Shackleton’s Hut is here as is the southernmost penguin colony. An emergency was becoming apparent here after the first landing, when the fast ice began to break up in Backdoor Bay behind Cape Royds, leaving those on the ice to make a hasty retreat back to the zodiacs. It showed the true adventurous nature of this trip and ability of the staff and passengers to respond quickly to a challenging situation.
So now to Cape Evans and to Scott’s famous hut from where he launched his ill fated 1911-13 expedition to the south pole. It is difficult not to moved while inside any of these huts. They have been left and untouched since the expeditioner left them, possibly in haste. They have literally been in the freezer for a hundred years. Still the reindeer sleeping bags on the bunks with socks hanging from above and pencil sketches on the walls. Hay still in perfect condition, Scott had Siberian horses for his quest to the pole. A whole side of mutton hanging, waiting to be cooked. Shelves of medical supplies, cartons of food, chocolate and cocoa, and the list goes on. One would think that at any time one of the adventurers could walk in the door to make the room complete.
It was minus 10 deg. Celsius but a few stood out side on the decks to marvel at the sight of the low sun reflecting views of Mt Erebus complete with a whisk of steam to enhance the colors as it moved in a low ark behind it.
2 – February
McMurdo Sound is the site of Discovery Hut situated in the shadows of the station on Hut Point, from where Scott spent the two winters of his first expedition in 1902-03. A short distance from here on a small knoll overlooking the hut, is a lone cross which pays tribute to George Vince, who was blown off a cliff into the frigid sea during a blizzard. What a cruel climate this can be.
The US McMurdo Station is only a short walk away, and we are given a very interesting guided tour of the facility. The brightly coloured buildings contrast with the white background of the landscape behind. The New Zealand Scott Base is a is few minutes away by helicopter. It is more compact and homely than the US base. We share a few Kiwi Jokes and buy some souvenirs before returning to the Khleb. A Great visit.
We leave McMurdo in the evening escorted by a large pod of Orcas The count was 102, believe me.
3 – February
From whose womb did the ice come forth?
and who has given birth to the frost of heaven?
-Job 38, 29
The Dry valleys. Excellent weather this morning and a helicopter ride takes us up into the dry valleys where a new phenomenon greets us as we land and wander around the valley floor. Where is the ice and the snow? None to be seen, save for the glaciers on the mountains on each side of the valley. Where we are standing is as dry as a desert. There is a 600 hundred year old mummified seal, several miles from the sea, how did he get there? No body realy knows. This valley is extensive, several miles wide and many, many miles long, all dry, why we ask? There are areas of rare mosses and lichen on the wind sculptured rocks. We have landed close to the Canada Glacier with glistening droplets of water on its cliff face.
The reason for the dryness is that very cold and strong katabatic winds blow down the valley carrying all ice and snow before it, leaving stone and bedrock behind. Another amazing place.
Back on the ‘Khleb’ and we make another attempt to visit the 1906 hut, of Ernest Shackleton’s expedition at Cape Royds. This time we all make a successful landing and waited our turn to visit inside the hut, numbers in the huts is strictly monitored, for obvious reasons. This is a much smaller hut than Scott’s hut, but no less moving to imagine the men living and working in these surroundings, there is a sense of unfinished business. Was it a refuge, a home or a prison? I am sure at times it was all three.
4 – February
If its possible to imagine a piece of beef, odoriferous cod fish and a canvas backed duck roasted together in a pot, with blood and cod-liver oil, the illustration would be complete. – Dr Frederick Cook, the Belgica Expedition 1885,
on what penguins taste like.
Perfect weather again to day, sun shining no wind. We are crashing through thick pack ice flows as we pass the spectacular Drygalski IceTongue, towards Terra Nova Bay. A chance to see Crabeater and Weddell seals up close. We are by now heading North and the evenings are becoming darker.
We make a visit to the Italian station which situated on the best real estate in Antarctica, at Terra Nova Bay, with rolling granite hills and the impressive volcano of Mt Melbourne dominating the skyline. The base consists of a number of modified shipping containers which are used over the summer but locked up to become an automated station during the winter, when every one packs up and goes home. We had an informative tour of the station and enjoyed great hospitality.
As the sun became very low in the sky we cruised along the 10 mile long ice tongue of the Campbell Glacier, in the Zodiacs. The ice scenery here was very impressive with the extraordinary shapes and colors and the occasional ice falls from the tongue. Many of the icebergs here are born from this ice tongue and the ‘Khleb’ and the Zodiacs are weaving in among them. Really, really, awesome.
To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing
and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous.
The glacier eats hills and drinkssunbeams.
– John Muir
We have a night of clear, open sea, but as we approach Cape Hallett the ice becomes heavier, but the weather remains quiet and the sun still shining. Still lots of Minke whales and seals on the way. We are unable to make a Zodiac landing because the ice had completely closed the landing area. The Captain instead nudged the ship into an inlet and parked in the fast ice. The staff tested the ice before we all walked down the gangplank and feel the freedom from the confinement of the ship again. Scenic flights were quickly arranged to fly over these spectacular surroundings.
Well after the stimulating flights, champagne was served on the ice, and a group photo arranged under the bow of Kapitan Khlebnikov. Another day in ‘paradise’?
6 – 7 February
Today we loose the sight of Antarctica, but not before sailing past the beautiful Possession Islands, and some indeed missed these magnificent islands and a pod of blue whales breaching. An unaccommodating swell did not allow us a landing so on we sail into the Great Southern Ocean, most, I fear with some trepidation as to what was in store for them.
Following another magnificent meal, we watched a farewell sunset over the white continent for the last time. It is time now to relax and rest after a packed week of activities. What an extremely active few days it has been, and to have been blessed with such beautiful weather as well. I am sure some are longing for a taste of the renowned southern ocean weather, just as I am sure too, that others are happy for it to stay just like it is now. So we have a new routine of sleep, eat, lecture, nana nap, the bar,eat, sleep on our way to Hobart, still a week away.
As we cross the Antarctic Circle the sea ice is diminishing by the hour. We get our last look at the prolific wild life that we have been privileged to see. Pods of Orkas and humpbacks, have crossed our tracks, and the familiar birds are still with us. So too are several huge ice-bergs, that are floating north and we will continue to see for a few more days .
The Last week
Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean – roll!
Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vein;
Man marks the earth with ruin – his control stop with the shore. – Lord Byron
What a rude awakening to the new day. We have a force 8 gale whipping up 8 meter seas, from the North. Not many at breakfast. The ship has a regular roll happening, with an extra big sea every now and then. It is with some amusement that we watch our fellow passengers negotiating their way around the ship, with arms outstretched to keep them upright, and our lecturers on the stage grabbing for some support when that extra lurch catches off guard. As the storm rages on, those of us still moving about become more capable of managing the situation.
The very few at breakfast today were greeted with 10 meter seas rolling past the windows. The barometer had dropped to 961 Mb! and negotiating the corridors has become a challenge. Lectures continued. The lecture theater is some what of a refuge, being amidships and on a lower deck, and so is mostly well attended. I have cancelled my usual promenade out on deck today. (mainly because all outside doors are locked shut) Frances and I still managed three meals a day and a snack or two as well, and fortunately did not suffer any sea sickness.
On and on we Sailed
On and on we sailed, and on and on the wind did blow,
It held its strength for days and days,
we passed close by Macquarie Island,
I do remember that peaceful night,
we once enjoyed at anchor here.
The wind had changed from North to West,
and hit the ship across the breast,
It meant the ship would roll er’r more,
so the captain changed cause to East by North
to ease the pain for all on board.
On and on we sailed again until we had to make a change,
and alter cause to Hobart Town.
The wind had eased to a steady blow
but still we rolled as on we go,
a somewhat lesser task to bare,
until we reached Tasmanian shores.
– Neale Beveridge
What a fantastic voyage this this has been, and the recalling of it all has bought back many memories, of the places and faces of those we met. I hope you too have enjoyed coming along with us.
Landed in LA 6:30am, after a 13.5 hrs. flight. Quick customs and baggage and awful coffee. We found out, at the last minute before we left home, that we were unable to pick up the RV on the same day as arrival in the US, turned out to be a good idea, anyway we booked a motel close to RV depot, walked some shops bought a phone for $30.00, had a decent coffee and rested.
Appointment to pick up RV at 8:30am, took 2hrs. Then to Wal Mart for victualing and headed north with five lanes of traffic all doing 60 to 70mph. Its frightening! and it is not against the law if everyone is doing the same speed.
Sequoia and Kings Canyon NP’s were our first two Parks. Steep, narrow roads, just as frightening, for Frances anyway. We saw a giant Sequoia tree 3000 years old. This is worlds largest living tree, but not the tallest. It weighs 1,240 tons. They are survivors, they never die, they just fall over.
They survive fire and drought and grow between 5000 and 7000 feet in elevation and there are thousands of them and thousands people visit and marvel at their size. There are several species of conifers in the forests.
Kings Canyon was similar but with less trees but more steep sided granite cliffs and mountains. We drove right up the canyon along side the King River, mountains on both sides. This was truly a majestic place. With the weather perfect, as it was, it is hard to imagine a more surreal place than this.
The RV, it is 23ft (7m) long 2.6m wide and 3.65m high, comes with gen set built in, runs the microwave and air con. Three ring cook top and oven, Two door fridge freezer, large. Shower and toilet with plenty of room. Plenty of storage and a large boot outside. No awning. Very comfortable. Petrol varies between $3 and $4 a gallon ie less than a dollar a liter.
My driving has become Americanized, I can handle several lanes of traffic, tight turns in the mountains and the general road rules. All drivers are courteous and mostly driving above the speed limit. Getting the correct exit is important.
We will be in Yellowstone NP tomorrow which will put us back on schedule. Did not go as far north as planned. Oregon has varied from Redwood and Douglas Fir forests through to marshy plains the beautiful Crater Lake and spectacular high dry gorges. We have had no rain, and as most of western USA. Very dry. And its getting colder. We will probably run into snow some time soon. Had our 1st frost already.
All well, except Frances has had a slight fall inside the Van a couple of days ago when we had stopped at a visitor center in Redwood NP. We had to get her specs repaired and her eyebrow stitched up, after an hours drive to the next town. She was a bit shaken up but OK again now. Bounced back as usual.
Yellowstone, Wyoming, is noted for its huge area of volcanic activity. From “Old Faithful” to boiling pools of mud, vents and
steam rising here there and everywhere. Many wild Buffalo, Elk, Mule Deer and a beautiful Red Fox. Native rabbits and Chipmunks. Old Faithful didn’t let us down and after standing around for 1/2 hr in a cold wind, it erupted with 30mts. of steam spurting skywards. Well I guess you had to be there.
We found a free park one night near an old ford on the Yellowstone River, 1/2 k from the road (not strictly legal) but very soon after we
settled in a herd of 30+ buffalo wandered through our camp paying no attention to us what so ever. We had a very heavy frost that night, I would say about -6 deg. We had some light snow the previous few days.
We picked the very end of the season to visit Yellowstone.
The scenery is still there but the buses and all the people were not. Many of the campgrounds are closed.
We follow on to Grand Teton NP, south from Yellowstone. This is a range of steep snow covered mountains with a lake alongside and the road alongside the lake. Beautiful clear skies, an awesome drive. Life’s tough.
Salt Lake City
We arrived in Salt Lake City this morning after an 80 mile drive due south from a place called Logan in Utah. The highway started off 2 lanes, then 3, then 4, and in parts 5, the max speed was 75 m/h, (120k) and the only ones driving at that speed were in the outside slow lane. We are here for 3 days and no driving. There is a new light rail system, which services all the major attractions, with a station 100mts away.
Catching a free ‘Mormon’ bus to see the sights of Salt Lake City tomorrow. Should be Fun?
S L C is the first big city we are visiting in the US, no real reason except it is on the way and that we should take a look, and there is good public transport. The population is 1,200,000, with a greater urban area stretching 120 miles, making a total population of 2,400,000.
We took a Mormon run free shuttle into the City center to visit Temple Square. The Mormon Temple is here, but we unable to enter, we would have to be baptized first and swear not to drink coffee and, and, well you know the rest. We spent most of the day wandering around, catching an organ recital in the Tabernacle and a tour of the huge conference center. This an amazing building seating 21,000 people, in the auditorium, and not a single pillar obstructing your view of the stage. The roof area is said to cover 3 acres (12000 sq m). On the roof there are granite ‘mountains’ and pathways through forests and deserts and waterfalls depicting the early pioneers who traveled 1300 miles from the east to where they settled here in the 1840’s.
Today we are going back there to hear the world famous Mormon Tabernacle choir performing .
Half of the population are Mormon and attend church every Sunday. We found them all very pleasant, as are all Americans.
We are glad we called in. We are heading for southern Utah next.
Some Animal Pics.
We have been driving in and around and through and down into the canyons of Utah for the last week and they are just amazing. It is hard to imagine they were created with just wind and water, and all so different. One gets that ‘wow’ feeling each time you see a new sight over the rise or around the corner.
Every Caravan Park in the US is called a Campground or an RV Park, but Campground covers both, some only for RV’s and caravans, others include tents, and some have cabins as well.
They range in price from $10.00 to $40+. We paid $41.50 for a site at Bryce Canyon, without a full hook up, but most of the others are around $25 to $30. National Parks are less, generally $24.00. They have the least on site facilities, Usually a secluded, flat sealed site with a raised BBQ and or an in ground fireplace and a table, add a short walk to heated bathrooms with hot showers. Not bad for $24.00.
The state parks are up one grade, adding power (up to 50amps), water and sewage. Some State parks have a private shelter shed with 2 walls, to keep out the wind and a light and a lockup cupboard. A full hookup at commercial Campgrounds includes free WY FY and cable TV.
In bear country all these parks have elaborate bear proof steel rubbish bins and lock up food cupboards on every site.
Our best Park was in Reno, Nevada. 400 sites in 8 neat rows of 50, all with full hookup. Add in a games room, club house, shop and artificial lawn between each site, a shade tree and a table, of course.
The worst park was the next day at a small town called Williams in California. The street frontage and office, which was hard to find, and with no body around, was a most unattractive and uninviting place. However down the back the site turned out to be OK. The caretaker (I think the owner) once found, was a very nice elderly lady who couldn’t do enough for us. Full hookup $18.00, half the price of the previous night in Reno. Not so bad after all.
There are very few free camping sites.
For the last week we have been travelling through Apache, Navajo and Hopi Indian Reservations and their ancient cliff houses built around 400AD, and only occupied for a few hundred years. Tonight we are in the heart of the Navajo Nation. We have met many of them and they are a nice, free living and knowledgeable people, some hawking jewelry and their artwork. The Indian people work and run every business in their towns.
No free camps here though!
These Pics are in Bryce Canyon Utah. I think this is remarkable scenery, and a beautiful day to go with it.
These are called Hoodoos
The Grand Canyon
There is no getting away from it, this Canyon is big, in fact its huge. 446 km long, 1.6 km deep, av. 16 km wide and the Colorado River average width 90 mts, and it is a magnificent sight to see. But it is not the worlds biggest nor the deepest or the widest or the longest, but it is said to be the Grandest Canyon of them all, from the literature I have seenhere at least.
Monuments in the Desert
Las Vegas, Hoover Dam
Well been there, done that. All very impressive and out of this world, or at least out of my world, and with apologies to all you Vegas lovers, its just not my scene.
We stayed at Sam,s Town RV park, itself a casino, and took a free shuttle bus 8 klm. into the Strip, booked tickets to a Rod Stewart Concert. 7:30 that night at Caesars Palace. We filled the day in wandering the strip, the big brand shops, expensive coffee bars, with lousy latte’s, restaurants with expensive hamburgers, and lavishly furnished Casino’s and loud.
The Concert was excellent. The whole Caesars Palace complex is out of this world.
There are several short drives around Las Vegas, like to the Hoover Dam, on the Colorado River, which took 5 years to build in the early 1930,s. At the time it was the worlds highest dam wall, Well worth a look.
The Colorado River is a large fast flowing river which drains part of the northern area of the US. Several rivers in the US Rockies drain and form up and become the Colorado. There are two large dams, both producing electricity for the national grid, and with large marinas for boating activities. There several other low level weirs down stream. The river, what is left of it, flows into the sea in Mexico.
I was talking to a lady neighbor in the RV park, as you do, and I asked what she thought of the polluted sky with about 20 jet streams hanging in the air, she looked up and said, no that’s just cloud.
Back in California
We begin week eight back in California, in Death Valley in fact. We have had no more than 10 minutes of rainfall, 2 light snow falls and two strong windy days, a couple of heavy frosts and some very cold nights, the rest of the time the sun has been shining. You cant get much better than that. We have a heater built into the van and it was well used during the colder nights
California is still in serious drought. Most of Oregon, Idaho, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and Nevada are semi arid ‘high’ deserts. 5000-7000 feet in altitude. We have been as high as 10,000 ft. The difference here is that there many large rivers which wined there way through the desert areas, and are providing irrigation and water for the populace.
There are of course, long distances between the tourist sights along the way, but the traveling is worth the trouble. Petrol is around $3.10 a gallon. Work it out – cheap!
We have seen magnificent forests and granite gorges in California, the beautiful blue Crater Lake in Oregon, a huge area of Lava flows at Craters of the Moon in Idaho, Volcanic action and Mountain scenery in Wyoming, and the amazing colors of the canyons in Utah, Arizona, and Nevada.
Now we are looking forward to seeing what Death valley has to offer, and maybe some coastal areas of southern California to round it all off.
I am happy now after the bright lights of Vegas. Back in the bush again, although there is not much bush here in Death Valley, its a desert, not all flat but with dry, stony hills and mountains surrounding the plains which are partly covered with a sage bush and desert shrubs. Today we will be travelling through the lowest elevation in North America. 86m below sea level on the Badwater road at Badwater. I wonder what that will be like?
Well the valley is 160km long and up to 18km wide and flat. It once formed a lake 90m deep. The lake dried up about 10,000 years ago. It had a reprieve 2000 years ago when it filled to 10m, after a period of wet conditions, but that lasted only a short time when it also dried up. The lake had no outlet. The valley has a range of mountains along each side of the valley, average height 1500m, highest Mt Whitney 4416m (the highest point in the lower 48 states) and is only 160km from the lowest point (-86m). The mountains are the reason it is so hot. They act like a huge oven reflecting heat onto the valley floor, the heat rises, and circulates back down. Average rainfall is 5mm per annum. There are a few soaks and springs, but they are and far between.
This is a still, quiet and beautiful place. The mountains are bare, nude, starkers, majestic, haunting, mysterious and their structure and the colors are all there to be seen.
The valley floor colors range from black to greys, cream to mustard yellows and dirty white patches of salt plain. The mountain colors are similar, add in red and pinks to complete all the colors of the rainbow. I didn’t see any blues though.
There is evidence of people visiting the area 4000 years ago. The Timbisha Shoshone People lived here between the years 1500 and 1890, with an intimate knowledge of the valley.
Gold miners came through from the 1850’s. Most were short lived. One group lost a member of their team on the way through and then one of them looked back on leaving and said “Goodbye Death Valley”.
And Goodbye from Me too, at Furnace Creek (pop.50), 33m below sea level, in Death Valley.
LA International Airport.
Big and busy.
Current time 9:00 pm. Flight leaves at 11:05. Flight time 13 hours, arrives 7:00am day after tomorrow. You work it out.
So its goodbye to America and to the Americans who we have met and enjoyed their company. This is a very easy country in which to travel, save the hectic freeways in the cities, its best to keep away from them. We have found the people very friendly and helpful in all respects, thank you for that. May be we will meet again some time.
We are home again and recovering, and all looks very good here, and I must say it is good to be home. But we really did have a great trip.
Frances is having a knee replacement on Dec 1. So we will be taking it easy for a few weeks. We will spend some time at Scrubby Rise when the temperature drops below 30C. Its very dry out there at the moment.
So where are we going next year I hear you ask? Well we have some exciting ideas in the melting pot and some deposits have been paid, but until we see how well Frances recovers after a knee opp, we will all just have to be patient. Have Fun.
Well David and Nicole with Chloe and Lora, were there. Liam was there with Mummy and Ma. Then along came Kate and Will.
My long time mate Kerry and his lovely wife Jan turned up early. And all were camped and settled in, when John and Daphne with Cheryl and Terry arrived in time for dinner.
Well the dinner went well, with roasts and bakes and birthday cake, and champers and reds and whites, and whisky too.
All pitched in to tidy up, and we finished the night around the camp fire all talking at once about, I don’t know what.
Next day, for those who were left, went off for a walk around the track, to be surprised by two koalas in adjacent trees.
Right there on the side of the track. When the next day came round we found another Koala on a different track.
What a great three day Birthday Party. Thank you Frances and All
September certainly is the birthday month for our family and friends There is still David and I to go. But yesterday was all about Chloe.
A beautiful day for a beautiful girl with lots of her friends and relations attending. The kids are all a year older and they have all grown up somewhat. They are bordering on being big kids already. Plenty of games and food filled the day.
Kimberley in 1945 was a small town equidistant from Deloraine and Sheffield, connected to each by poorly maintained gravelled roads. There were three shops, one with petrol, a baker, a butcher, a two teacher school, two churches, one catholic the other protestant, both well attended, and public hall where dancing was a popular and regular event. The hall was built on the site where an old pup once stood (I have heard it was burnt down in suspicious circumstances). The district also supported badminton and tennis clubs .
The community was very civically minded. A very active CWA. Football and Cricket on the ‘Rec’ as it was called.
Kimberley’s other claim to fame was their hot springs. They were undeveloped, covered in weed and blackberry and difficult to access.
The railway station was the hub. It was also, the post office and I think, the telephone exchange in earlier days. Most of the freight came and went by rail. All stock were freighted out by rail. The ‘Armitstead’ cattle were herded from the property along the roads and down the main street of Kimberley to the railway yards, before loading onto railway trucks.
Kimberley today has many more people, but has no shops, no school, no hall, one Church, no railway station, very good sealed road connections and developed Hot Springs.
Sir Barry Blyth Holloway, who I knew very well and played with as a boy was born and lived in Kimberley until he moved to and later became a politician in the Papua New Guinea Government. He is buried in the Church of England churchyard.
I can remember when the war ended. It was a time for celebration. The community organised a gathering on the Rec. Everybody in the district turned up to a huge bon fire and an effigy of ‘Tojo’ was thrown up on the fire. There were fireworks and dancing and shouting and waving of arms and generally great frivolity.